I often incentise my sewing with mini targets and chances to wear the item in question. This dress was made for Fat Quarterly Retreat 2014. I wanted to find a pattern with a good bodice that I could translate on to a range of dress skirts and I think I have found it. Simplicity 1419, Lisette dress and jacket. I've made the jacket too and that is being treated to a blog post of its very own. The dress was an easy make, once I got over the always essential and tedious hurdle of making a test bodice and altering the darts.
I tweaked the neckline to complement the 1950s feel of the print with a little help from Simplicity 2444 and brought the neckline in at the shoulders to keep bra straps under wraps. The bodice is lined in cotton lawn so I didn't have to add any facings.
Apart from that, this is an easy pattern to sew and fit. The skirt width is altered at the side seams- the front pleats are the same for each size. Nice and easy!
I like to try out any tips and tricks when I can, so this time for the zip, I tried a little glue basting. In quilting/patchwork Cristy and her mom, Sharon have popularised this method for different kinds of piecing. It uses Elmer's school glue and a bottle with a fine tip. I found Elmer's School Glue on Amazon. I bought these tiny glue bottles on ebay and the tip hasn't clogged, it has worked brilliantly! You do need to remember to heat set as you glue using a dry iron. It certainly made sewing a zip (never my favourite job) a lot easier.
Quick summary of the method: Glue Basting a Centred Zip
- The centre back seam is sewn with a large temporary stitch to the point where the zipper end will be, then change to a smaller standard stitch, secure with a back stitch and sew the remainder of the seam. Press the seam open.
- On the WS, the zip is placed with teeth against the opened seam, using a thin line of glue on either side to hold the zipper tape in place and keeping the glue away from the zipper teeth. Press zip gently down with a dry iron.
- Turn to RS, sew from the top of the zipper to the bottom, stitching ¼" away from the centre seam stopping at the centre seam and securing. Repeat on the other side.
- Unpick the large temporary stitches to reveal the zipper teeth underneath.
As I was lining the bodice, I didn't need any seam edge finishing but usually this would happen in step one. I have been trying glue basting with some other dressmaking steps, just here and there. It washes out and is a very temporary adhesive and I've had no problems so far.
Time for my close ups; thank you to my daughter as ever for the pictures.
Essential Details
- Simplicity 1419 Lisette with a hint Simplicity 2444 neckline
- Size 10 Bodice grading to size 12 waist and hips (with generous ease allowed). Small bust adjustment on both sets of darts. Length extended by a couple of inches. No other changes.
- Fabric: Juliana Horner for Joanns, 'Rosette' on premium cotton. No longer easily available, sold in USA only.
- Clogs: Soft sole Red Täckt Lotta from Stockholm
It's a lovely dress Kerry! I really like that fabric, it suits you perfectly :) I always find zippers a bit tedious to sew. It's rare for me to get them just right without having to unpick - several times if I'm unlucky. I'll definitely give glue basting a go next time. Do you put the zipper pull up or down when you install it on a closed seam like this? I tend to get a little wobble in my stitching line where the zipper pull is no matter what I do!
ReplyDeleteI know what you mean about the zip pull. I leave it upwards and I tend to start my sewing lower down, then come back to that bit later when I undo the seam, slide the pull down and finish the seam off. I try and run the stitching lines together so it looks like a continuous seam on each side. It is hard to get it looking perfect.
DeleteReally lovely, Kerry! You always do such a lovely finish. xxx
ReplyDeleteGreat dress! Like how you covered the waist seam :)
ReplyDeleteSo pretty!
ReplyDeleteThis looks great! I considered that Lisette pattern recently but I am too good at buying patterns (and fabric!) and then never sewing them so I was strict with myself. I use magic tape to hold down the edges of zips before sewing them but can see this glue basting method would be good too.
ReplyDeleteHen x
really pretty and thanks for the glue tip!
ReplyDeleteReally lovely dress, it fits you perfectly and the fabric is really nice.
ReplyDeleteso pretty :-)
ReplyDeleteI've used wondertape before because it's right by the sewing machine. The glue - I have to remember to give it time to dry - I don't use that method as often. I've also hand basted.
ReplyDeleteAs for the zipper pull 'wobble stitching', I've noticed, with my new machine, I can get my needle over to the far left (or far right) and use my regular foot - more secure on the fabric than my rinkydink zipper foot - less 'wobble' by the pull area.
...and.....Beautiful color with your gorgeous hair.
ReplyDeleteso gorgeous! I love the bodice :-D
ReplyDeleteYour dress looks fantastic on you! Perfect pairing of fabric to pattern, and your adjustments to the neckline and finishing touches give the dress a wonderful vintage chic flair. I personally am much more intimidated by fitting a bodice than I am by zippers. Last time I tried to do a full bust adjustment to a dress pattern, I ended up with a dress that fit my 6'8" husband better than if fit me, and the finished project went straight to Goodwill donation. :-(
ReplyDeleteIt's a perfect combination of fabric, pattern and fit and looks wonderful on you!
ReplyDeleteVery pretty, green is a great colour on you :o)
ReplyDeleteLooks good! Interesting bodice construction.
ReplyDeleteLove the dress! wonderful fabric also and it looks fabulous on you - I think I'll give it a go.... thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteGorgeous fabric choice and it fits you beautifully. Lovely.
ReplyDeleteGreat work; that dress really suits you; and thanks for the links.
ReplyDeletethis is quite simply, lovely.
ReplyDeleteYou always pick the best fabrics for your clothing! Love this dress and you look so lovely!
ReplyDelete