Wednesday, 4 April 2012

Post 7 -Tova Collar, and your Tova is complete- Linky Time!

Are you still there?  Still sewing a long with your Tova?  The end is in sight and it is an easy finish.  this post is all about the collar and links in with stage 7 of Jenny Gordy's instructions.  I rounded my collar (details on how to here).  When you attach the collar, the important thing is to check that the front edge of the collar extends 3/8" beyond the front edge neck line- you can see the handy measuring gauge checking mine out.  The basting stitches below are not for the collar but for my double thickness inset section.  
(**edited to add**)You could staystitch the collar as Mel suggests here.  Stay stiching is just stitching inside the seam allowance- 1/4" from the edge would be idea around the neck line to stop it stretching.  A smaller stitch is a good idea for this.
I was incredibly lucky with the pattern matching, I centred the collar on the  fabric stripes just as I did the back section and they all matched up nicely!
When you attach the second collar piece it helps to press the 3/8" seam allowance up just at the ends of the collar before you start pinning.
With the curved end collar the only difference is that you are stitching a curve around the collar end rather than a straight line, pivot and continue round the rest of the collar.  It helps on both versions to use a really small stitch for the ends of the collar.  You can use a usual length stitch for the rest of the stitching but the collar end seams will be trimmed back and small stitches gives the seam additional security. 
You can see how the pressed lower collar edge gets sewn into the seam so that when you turn the collar through it should be just covering the seam.  For the straight edge collar you need to trim the corner but for the curve you need 'clip the seam', and because this curve will face inward when the collar is turned the right way out, you need to cut notches out of the seam.  These will close up and allow the seam to curve round smoothly.   You can reduce the seam a little too, I trimmed mine down, then cut the V shapes out.
You can hand sew the collar edge down or pin carefully and stitch close to the  edge of the fabric all around the collar.  And then your Tova is done!  
I am just starting to see sew-a-long Tovas pop up but I would love it if you could link your Tova here so I could see them all!  I would like to thank Jenny Gordy for such a great pattern, I can honestly say I have not seen a 'bad' Tova!  And thankyou for you all for sewing with me, it really does make it a lot more fun- now get your Tovas out.  I have given you a nice long 6 weeks to get your link in!




sib blog

14 comments:

  1. Oh, finally have my pattern put together and ready to cut! I'll finish eventually. Thanks so much for all the great photos and step by step instructions!

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  2. I've uncharacteristically been one step ahead the whole way - I'm usually the world's slowest sewist. But I'll be referring back to the sew-along when making future Tovas, I'm sure. Great to see a few alternative sleeve and collar options, too. Thanks, Kerry!

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  3. I have a fitting and adjusting question for you. I found that my arm movement wasn't great once I attached the sleeves. I did some adjustments to allow me to lift my arms forward and up (as in for typing, bike riding and lifting babies), but now that my shirt is finished and I am wearing it to work, I find it's still a little tight across the upper chest (like if I pull my elbows towards one another in back) at about armpit level, above the boobs. I know this isn't a stretchy knit top, but I think I can improve the fit a bit. Should I try again sizing the whole thing up (extrapolating from the pattern since I would need to go up to XXL) even though the collar is a little big and the shoulder width is just right? or should I slice the main front piece down vertically and add a wedge shape in and possibly reduce my addition to the side seems? Or make this kind of adjustment to the main front piece like I did for the back?
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/7573004@N06/4858521255/

    Any suggestions are greatly appreciated and thanks so much for this sew along. I have learned so much!

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  4. You could widen the inset section, the L bit at the front main section- when you cut out you could start it back from the fold line by maybe half an inch, this would give you an extra inch width just across the front and back/shoulder etc would remain the same. However much you widened at this point, you would also have to do the same on the straight edge of the inset pieces as well. I haven't done that sort of back adjustment so I have no authority to speak on that!

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  5. That's a great idea. And for the placket I could add the extra amount in a wedge so I don't have to make the collar bigger. It won't taper as much as it does now, but if it's half an inch on each side, it will still taper an inch or so. Thank you!

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  6. I'm glad you have given us 6 weeks, but I see that this was posted nearly a week ago already. Oh dear! I have cut out the pattern, but had a disaster with my fabric - the first lot I chose had been stored in sunshine and was partly faded. But now I have the fabric and am ready to go. I'm looking forward to reading all your advice, and I will join in the linky party, even if it's on the last day!

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  7. Mine is finished! Stayed up last night and got it done. It took me a long old time, with the instructions to one side and your sew along directions to the other!! But I am pretty pleased with it, I've only ever sewed quilts before and I only started sewing last year so a total novice. Thanks for hosting this, couldn't have done it without you!
    I don't have a blog to link to but you can see it here http://www.flickr.com/photos/hannlib/6929927834/

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  8. I did it! And am planning a couple more already... thanks for all the brilliant tips and help along the way...

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  9. Yay, finished my first Tova! Thanks so much for the sew-a-long Kerry

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  10. I bought the pattern and sewed two TOVA's without knowing about your sew a long. I think I could've cut learning curve a bit had I found this first, but I loved the pattern and instructions nonetheless.
    If you want to check mine out, I joined and uploaded to the Flickr group and here's my blog posting:
    http://piecedgoods.wordpress.com/2012/05/01/sewing-tova/
    It's very fun see everyone's TOVA's. They're all great!

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  11. I made it in the nick of time! I have had it finished for a week, just didn't have time to blog about it! I loved this sew-along! Thanks so much!

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  12. Thanks for organizing this sew-a-long. I'm making this on my own now, and it's fun to see all the different versions!

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  13. i just made my first tova, which is also my first garment ever, and i seriously could not have done it without your sew-a-long tutorials. you had so many helpful tips and photos to get me through the tricky parts. thank you so much!

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  14. I just finished my first Tova and your sew-a-long was extremely helpful. Thank you! Unfortunately, I'm 35 weeks pregnant so I have to wait a little bit before I can start wearing it.

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