Farmer's Wife 1930s Quilt along, blocks 89 and 90, Ruby and Sara

It's feeling very close to the end so here goes another week of Farmer's Wife blocks.  I made both of these as triangle blocks as part of the twin/queen layouts in the book.  Starting with block 89, Ruby  Number 87, Prudence(p.248, letter p.91).  Wonky alignment is part of this block - many of the seams are not supposed to meet - I would probably like this block more if they did but hey ho. If you'd like to see a full size version, Jo Avery from Mybearpaw is guest blogging on this block and she english paper-pieced her Ruby block.

Fabric Credits
Riley Blake Ardently Austen Text Black
Penny Rose Fabrics Hope Chest Blossom Yellow
Penny Rose Fabrics Hope Chest Blossom Teal

Sara, block 90 (p.249, letter p.88) is another half block. The design is better showcased in a full block but I like the prettiness of these colours and the simplicity of squares and half square triangles.   The letter is a sweet read about wanting a window above the kitchen sink.  We don't have a dishwasher so washing up is done the old way in our house and I certainly appreciate the window whilst doing one of my least favourite tasks.

Fabric Credits
Kona Peony
Ayumi Takahasi for Kokka, Lighthearted, Kitchen Plaid
Ayumi Takahasi for Kokka, Lighthearted, Kitchen floral

{For both blocks, I link to sponsor shops for fabric bought from them and elsewhere for other fabrics}

A little warning with this block; as with all the blocks, if you are foundation paper piecing do take care to use a ruler and check the seam allowances.  On this block all of mine seemed to be narrower or wider than ¼".  The discrepancy may well come from some niggles in the computer software to draw the foundation blocks for the book.  Laurie hand pieced  her blocks so it may well have been missed.  Or maybe it is just a printing issue with the PDFs- whatever it is trust your ruler not the dotted lines!

Rotary Cutting 

These are for foundation piecing so are cut larger than needed.  I've included the dimensions only this week, not the quantities but it is easy to work out what you need from the book illustration. 

• squares: cut 1 ¼"squares
• Large Half Square Triangles : cut 3 ¼" squares (cut on-point if you want to avoid the diagonal of the triangle being on the bias), sub-cut each square into halves along the diagonals to yield 2 HSTs from each square
• Small Half Square Triangles : cut 2 ¼" squares (cut on-point if you want to avoid the diagonal of the triangle being on the bias), sub-cut each square into halves along the diagonals to yield 2 HSTs from each square.

Top Tips for Foundation Piecing this Block

• Pre cut all pieces
• Use a water based glue stick e.g. Sewline, to stick the first piece of fabric on each section
• Chain piece where possible
• Use an index card or a Dritz seam guide to fold the paper back when trimming excess

This week, I've sewn up three new nine-patch blocks  my collection, (you can see the original idea for this quilt in that link) 22  in total.

• You can share your farmer's wife quilt blocks with the hashtags #fw1930sqal and for these blocks either #Rubyblock or #Sarablock as well as #fw89Ruby, #fw90Sara
• If you want me to take a look at your blocks, tag me on Instagram, I'm @verykerryberry or comment here and paste in a link to your blog
• There's a Flickr group you can add to here.  All my Farmer's Wife 1930s blocks can be seen in this album and my 9-patch blocks in this album. 

Justine returns with for the final time as a guest blogger next Monday.  See you again next week x 

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July at Eternal Maker

Here are my July choices for Eternal Maker, I can always find so many beauties hidden in their vast selection online- even more in their bricks and mortar shop in Chichester.  I'm loving grey and bright colours at the moment so that was my starting point for these choices.

1. Cat Face silhouette jersey knit. Lightweight  cotton/ lycra jersey (8% elastane).  A multitude of clothing uses
2. Circle Blooms, in blue on linen blend.  Beautiful paper cut style print by Ellen Luckett Baker  for Kokka. Also available in pink.
3. Dream a Little, grey, Faraway Forest.  My favourite print from the Faraway forest range by   Lizzie Mackay for Blend fabrics, (see more in the next choice).  I've seen this print sewn up as a sleep mask which is a lovely  idea, also good for a cloud cushion or pillowcase.
4. Faraway Forest Range by Lizzie Mackay for Blend fabrics
5. Puddle Pink from Rain or Shine, Dashwood Studios.  Vibrant colours in this quilting cotton print.
6. Jersey viscose bias binding.  Incredibly useful bias binding which works well with woven fabrics e.g. to finish necklines or armholes.  Just some of the colours available in this photo, big colour selection available online.
7. Heavyweight denim with colour motes by Robert Kaufman.  I haven't seen this elsewhere in the UK and the little flecks are a great little addition, I can see it used for a bag or children's wear, or maybe a Grainline Moss skirt?
8. Grove Sidewalk from Handcrafted 2 by Alison Glass.  these Handcrafted hand dyed fabrics are between quilting weight and garment weight so work for both.
9. Piece, Grey Silver, Echino metallic cotton linen blend.  Stunning print by Etsuko Furuya.

Kielo Wrap Dress: From Knit to Woven Version

Every now and again I come across a pattern that is a wardrobe changer and this summer, Named Clothing's Kielo Wrap dress has been my dress of the summer.  I haven't worn my vintage style fit and flare dresses hardly at all.  Instead I've been flowing around in a couple of Kielo dresses and each time I wear one, I receive lots of lovely compliments- what's not to like!

So far I've made three, including one for my daughter which will make an appearance here so, and I have another woven one cut out.  I made a few changes to my original pattern to allow for a drapey woven rather than a jersey fabric so I thought I'd share the details and a few tips.

I wanted to allow a little more room to account for woven Joel Dewberry rayon challis that I was using.  I won this fabric from Rachel Pinheiro a couple of years ago, it came from Chrstine Haynes and I've been saving it for a summer dress- I was just waiting for the right pattern.   It's a lovely quality fabric in glorious colours and the print is called Dainty Daisies.

I cut the fabric on a board on the floor as rayon challis is very drapey and easily falls off tables and raised surfaces.  I added a generous quarter inch on the front centre line which is placed on the fold and the same on the back pieces which are cut separately.  Rayon fibres easily snag - so I tried some Merchant & Mills Entomolygy pins that I've had for a while.  They are long, sharp and flexible and until this point I hadn't found a particular use for them although I do fancy them for pinning lace when sewing bras.  The name is mysterious and alluring until you find out that Entomology pins are classically long, black, delicate pins used for displaying insects - Merchant & Mills intend them for silks not butterflies.  Anyway, I found them perfect for rayon. I also used a size 70 Microtex needle.

The construction was the same for the seams, darts and split as my jersey Kielo.

When it came to the neck and armhole bindings I knew that there was no way I was going to cut lots of bias rayon strips- it slips and slides too much for me to make a good job of it.  Instead, I had a couple of metres of pink viscose jersey binding- Eternal Maker stock this in lots of colours.  Viscose and rayon are related fibres so it worked well with the rayon.  It is creased and folded like woven bias binding so I unfolded it and re-pressed it along the length to make double folded binding and followed this Grainline Tutorial for flat bias necklines.  To allow for the stretch, I cut the binding a ¼" shorter than the neck seam measurement (for woven it's usually ⅛") and it made  a soft, neat finish.  I use a stiletto tool to hold binding away from the seam when under stitching.

A Kielo dress is a pleasure to wear. It's cool and breezy, the waistline is forgiving and very handy for summer celebrations - July is a big birthday month for us so there's lots of family meals and cakes to fit in.   Both my Kielos roll up and easily fit into overnight bags so are perfect for holidays and travel. Thanks to my husband for these pics, our local beach made a great location for a very quick fashion shoot!

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Vintage Pledge: Henley Jane Top

You'll find me over at another Kerry's blog today, Kestrel Makes  as part of #VintagePledge July extravaganza with daily guest postings from lots of garment sewing bloggers at A Stitching Odyssey and Kestrel Makes.    My #VintagePledge this year has been all about tops so that is what I've sewn, a vintage top with a contemporary feel.

Read more about it over  along with a few tips on sewing knits at the other Kerry's blog.

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Farmer's Wife Quilt Along, Blocks 87 and 88: Prudence and Rosemary

Another Monday and two new blocks in the Farmer's Wife quilt-along.  These are both quite time consuming blocks.  Number 87, Prudence(p.246, letter p.58) took me forever and I'm not sure the yellow on the larger triangle sections  works that well but I have no plans to repeat it!  Charise is guest blogging on this block and you can read all about Y seams and her approach to Prudence here.

Fabric Credits
Kona Buttercup
Kona Carnation
Ayumi Takahasi for Kokka, Lighthearted, Kitchen floral

Block 88, Rosemary (p.247, letter 104) takes a while to construct but it is well thought through with lots of nesting seam intersections when the sections are put together.

Fabric Credits
Kona Corn
Kona Melon
Heather Ross for Wyndham, Tiger Lily, brown butterflies
Darlene Zimmerman Mother's Melodies Chocolate spot

{For both blocks, I link to sponsor shops for fabric bought from them and elsewhere for other fabrics}

Rotary Cutting 

These are for foundation piecing so are cut larger than needed 

• Yellow centre square: cut (1) 1¾" square
• Yellow small squares: cut (4) 1 ⅜" square 
• Yellow quarter square triangles: cut (1) 3" square; sub-cut each square into quarters along the diagonals to yield 4 QSTs
• Brown butterflies A  1, B1, C1, D1: Cut (4) 1 ⅞" x 3 ¼" rectangles
• Brown butterflies half square triangles: cut (4) 3 ¼" squares; sub-cut  each square in half along the diagonal to yield 8 HSTs
• Melon half square triangles: cut (4) 3 ¼" squares; sub-cut  each square in half along the diagonal to yield 8 HSTs
• Melon small rectangles: cut (8) 1 ¼" rectangles
• Brown grid small rectangles: cut (8) 1 ¼" rectangles
• Brown grid quarter square triangles: cut (2) 3" square; sub-cut each square into quarters along the diagonals to yield 8 QSTs

Top Tips for Foundation Piecing this Block

• Pre cut all pieces
• Use a water based glue stick e.g. Sewline, to stick the first piece of fabric on each section
• Chain piece where possible;  there are lots of repeated sections
• For F1, G1, H1 and E1, add a larger than needed triangle lining up the pint of the triangle with the centre seam between the first two sections. When you trim the new section to size use the paper on the rest of the sections as a guide line for your quilt ruler.  The 45 degree line should line up on the seam between the first two sections

I love how this block turned out,  I used some of my favourite fabrics and colours and I like the bird/plane shapes!

I've added two more nine-patch blocks  my collection, (you can see the original idea for this quilt in that link) 19 in total so far.

• You can share your farmer's wife quilt blocks with the hashtags #fw1930sqal and for these blocks either #Prudenceblock or #Rosemaryblock as well as #fw87Prudence, #fw88Rosemary
• If you want me to take a look at your blocks, tag me on Instagram, I'm @verykerryberry or comment here and paste in a link to your blog
• There's a Flickr group you can add to here.  All my Farmer's Wife 1930s blocks can be seen in this album and my 9-patch blocks in this album. 

Jo Avery is back as a guest blogger next Monday.  See you next week x 

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Maritime Knit Top Three Ways + Fumeterre Maxi Skirt

In my wardrobe making this year, I've been trying harder to make more everyday basics like knit tops and colour co-ordinate my clothes so they match up with shoes, bags and the rest of my wardrobe.  It feels like I've finally grown up, it's only taken 45 years. I bought a classic cotton stripe jersey from Fabworks Mills shop and bought the Liesl+ Co Maritime top from - currently on offer with all her other Oliver+S and Straight Stitch Society patterns at 50% off through Saturday 23rd July - bargain!  I've had these made a while but the offer seemed like a good time to share them.

Liesl's instructions are always impeccable and this is no exception.    For those with a bust cup size larger than a B cup Liesl includes details on adding a dart for a full bust alteration and the process is very simple and well explained.   Even the printing is efficient for a digital pattern, not many pages and easy to put together.  I made a size 2 based on my measurements and the only alteration was to taper in very slightly at the waist- the pattern seam line is straight.    I made view A for my first and then extended the sleeves for a cold day, full length sleeve version using my Craftsy Meg McElwee long sleeved T as a reference.  

The skirt is a Deer and Doe Fumeterre.  I've made three of these- all the details can be found here; this is the first time of done version A.    I used a Kobayashi Double gauze in an indigo navy.  I used snaps instead of buttons and I have a tutorial for how I attach these using Prym pliers.

The Maritime top can be made with a sewing machine or with a sewing machine and an overlocker- the sewing machine is needed to create the side vents. My best version of this top was made using some very good quality heavier knit from Eternal Maker.  

It's Kiyohara stripe jersey and you can see it's thickness in my stripe matching photo.  These are quick tops to sew up apart from the stripe matching- that takes time both cutting and sewing.   This fabric washes up brilliantly, the Fabworks one not so well.  I have another Kiyohara stripe ready to cut for another, I think this gold colour is sold out but there is red, grey and various blue shades.

Definitely a wardrobe stalwart.  If you can't face a digital bargain, there's a paper pattern Maritime top at Eternal Maker.

A flash of fancy Liberty facing to finish.  The button opening allows for a little facing decadence!

July at Plush Addict

It's just coming up to school summer holiday season in the UK, we finally have hot weather, although so hot no one quite knows what to do with themselves and I am emjoying lots and lots of bright colours at the moment so it's time to visit sponsor Plush Addict and I'm making nine extra colourful  choices this month. Many of these choices are related to UK fabric companies and have the magic touch of British quilters such as Lynne Goldsworthy of Lily's Quilts and Kelly Liddle of Jeli Quilts 

Row by row, l to r:

1. Makower, Windy Day bundle.  Another cute and bright range from UK company Makower.  Lynne Goldsworthy has designed a quilt kit for these too available separately here and here
2. Dashwood Studio Twist Arrow Quilt designed by Lynne Goldsworthy.
3. Michael Miller Vintage Kitchen FQ Bundle. Not surprisingly, I think this is my favrouite of today's selection- great  retro colours, kitchen themes and some animals sprinkled in too, win win!
4. Riley Blake glasses multi.  Great print for pouches, bags and of course quilts!
5.  Postcards from Sweden Quilt Kit (pre order).  All kits are here
6. Sew & Sew from Choe's Closet Moda.  A pastel rainbow  of floral and sewing themed fabrics available in Jelly roll, layer cake and charm pack as well as selected prints. and a fat quarter bundle. 
7.  Dashwood Millefleur- Floral Stems on Bright Blue.  Millefleurs is a stunning collection from UK company Dashwood and this is my favourite print (see the bundle here)
8. Makower Wrap it Up Quilt Kit . Get your Christmas quilt sorted early with this kit designed by Lynne Goldsworthy.
9. Riley Blake Unicorns & Rainbows.  A crazy print which always proves very popular.

One of the effects of Brexit for UK quilt/fabric shops could well be for them to look at UK suppliers, with the changes in £/$ rates it makes much better business sense and with companies such as Dashwood and Makower creating such fantastic ranges and working with British quilters like Lynne and Kelly, this could well be a positive spin off.
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