The Gathered Dress Hack: Maxi Version

I've liked the fit of my Gathered Dresses (long sleeve and short sleeve versions) so much, especially the bodice, that I knew I wanted to try the bodice on other dresses so this is my first hack.  I had two metres of wide double gauze from Stitch fabrics, bought at a local craft show earlier this year and I wanted to make a maxi sundress with it to maximise its floaty qualities.  So, I used the top bodice and sleeve, tracing the front piece off and shortening it to the pattern waistline marking on the back bodice.  I added the skirt and pockets from an old favourite,  Simplicity 1801 (here's the original post for this pattern).   

I've used this skirt with Maxi Darling Ranges dresses several times and I love the front and back centre gathers, deep pockets and smooth line over the hips. The gathers make it an easy marriage between bodice and skirt and as with the Darling Ranges dress, I added ties to bring the waist in whilst still keeping a relaxed fit. This double gauze is softer and has more drape than a Nani Iro double gauze so the finished dress has a floaty look and feel and is really comfortable in hot weather.  I used the short sleeve from the Gathered Dress pattern and rolled up the finished sleeve which works well in this fabric.  I think the bodice will be perfect to adapt for tops so I predict more hacks in the future! 

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Me Made May Weeks 2-3: Everything Else

Self photography is a tricky business so what follows is mainly a selection of dodgy selfie iphone shots with some of my weeks 2/3 Me Made May 13 outfits.  I made this Airelle top a few weeks back with some Grayson Perry Liberty lawn which was an ebay bargain.  It needs a proper photo as it is a lovely slightly fitted blouse and has really given me a new pattern company to love- Deer and Doe.

I made a size 38 (UK 10) and altered the bust.  Although I am narrow in the chest I hate any sort of restriction in the sleeves or shoulders so I find this size and taking in the sides and the chest works best and is my standard adjustment for lots of tops.  There are waist and back darts for gentle shaping and the shoulder line is created by front and back yoke.  The sleeves are a lovely fit, especially around the armscye/armhole.  I did manage randomly place two of the central flower motifs rather creatively placed like pasties on my front! 

 It's a little gappy around the V so on the next one I will adjust it on the front at the shoulder by the neck so this lies flat. I reduced a little fullness on the pattern piece by taping down with washi tape. I generally use Swedish tracing paper for pattern pieces.  Tracing is not my favourite part of dress making and this makes life easier.  It is soft and strong, does't crinkle and tea like paper and take up loads of room flapping around.  Its popular stuff and hard to get in the UK, Annie has had some in and it has already sold but more is coming.

I made this Wiksten tank a couple of months back using Field Study Rayon bought here.   The fabric practically falls on the body, it clings and flows in a very flattering way.  It is also tricky to cut- scissors rather than my usual rotary cutter preference.  It needs gentle handling and sharp pins as it will snag easily.  

As a result, I went with an easy pattern shape.  No darts so good for a small bust, although  I found that as rayon drapes so well, the tank came up looking a little big and I could have gone down a size- I can't wear it without something underneath as it looks too loose but the print is so pretty and the flow of the fabric is such a pleasure to wear, I am happy to layer it.

Sometimes I can persuade my daughter to take pics.  This is my latest Lonsdale skirt made again with Anna Maria Horner Field Study but this time linen/cotton from here.

This is incredible fabric to work with, quite heavy but with lovely drape and flow.  It holds a crease from the iron but doesn't crease when you are sitting or holding it and the pattern works in both directions so the 60" wide fabric is perfect for an A-line maxi like this.  Size 6 with the waist sitting low, no pattern alterations. Mmmm, swishy...

I made these PJ pants in preparation for my Fat Quarterly retreat class.  I have 3 pairs, all a little different and a 4th pair planned to show the construction techniques involved.  There area few alternations to the original Simplicity pattern which are part of the class- adding leg hem cuffs, adding a wider part elastic/ part draw waist tie.  These were made entirely from thrifted fabric, soft twill weave florals.

And finally a dress from last year, Simplicity Cynthia Rowley 1801.  I like this dress, good pockets, the right length, gathers front and back and not at the sides on the skirt all works well but I do lack the fun bags at the front and if I fitted this really well it would not be flattering.  I wore this on a little shopping trip with my sis.  We tried on stacks of clothes in a local dress agency and gave each other honest opinion- yay or nay on how we looked.  I came out from the changing room in this dress and she shook her head- no not that one.  I had to point out this is what I came in.  Its alright, she's my sis, I forgive her and she has a point!

LillyBelle Dress

I have been given the opportunity to test some Art Gallery fabrics. These are Henna Stripe in grey and mustard from the LillyBelle range by Bari J. The fabric is the most beautiful tightly woven smooth cotton and I have found it ideal for dress making.  I know quilt fabrics can be a little looked down upon for clothes.  we are attracted by the lush colours and great patterns but the weave can be a little stiff and coarse especially for dresses that need some drape.  Art Gallery fabrics are perfect for dress making.  The most brilliant feature is their handling.  The closeness of the weave means that they do not fray easily.  Some sections in clothes need a lot of handling and manipulation in the construction process- waistbands for example, and these fabrics can take it.   This dress is Simplicity Cynthia Rowley 1801 not sure why mine has a different number but 1801 matches the Simplicity website.

I especially like the skirt section of this pattern  and it will be easy to make it again as a stand alone skirt.  The fullness is around the front and back and the sides are smooth which on a pear shape body appears flattering.  A skirt from this is my next clothes sewing project waiting in the wings.    The top half would be better with a big bust. I am an A cup on a good day so lack fulsome chesticles to do this style justice.  Come autumn/winter I will stick a skinny jersey top underneath it so it has practically year round wearing potential. I didn't line the skirt- it isn't see through and doesn't seem to need it.  There is a facing on the neck and waistband so the inside is pleasingly neat and tidy.

You all know how useful pockets are and a little contrast that can be glimpsed from time to time is the sort of detail that captures the fun of making your own clothes.  You can add as many extra details as you like!  Like the Simplicity 2215 dress and skirt, this pattern has a side seam zip that runs into the pocket seam.  The directions are particularly good on this pattern.

 Some little tips I tried on this pattern.  The first I picked up at Coletterie- the Colette sewing blog, a wonderful place for tips!  For the gathering, use three rows of gathering stitches- this sounds like more work but the evenness of the gathering actually makes it efficient sewing.  I also pressed the gathers before I sewed the seam.  I read this on a sewing blog- forgive me I cannot remember where!  It makes the gathers more stable in the seam and less likely to shift. 
 The second is a few invisble zip pointers that I have found really help to make invisible zips look even and disappear.  Before I pin the zipper, I mark a few pairs of pencil marks down the reverse of the tape.  They help to make sure the fabric matches up on either side of the zipper line- important for the contrasting waist band on this dress.

 I also sew a line of contrasting large stitches in the seam line where the zipper will be inserted.  This acts as a guideline to help me keep the zipper in exactly the right place when I sew it with the invisible zipper foot.

 You can see the ridge next to the zipper teeth where the final stitches attach the zipper to the seam lying over the red stitches.

You can see the same thing here as the zipper foot holds the teeth coil.

 And the finished seam here is ready to have the red stitches pulled out and the teeth are definitely on the seam line.

Coletterie posted an invisible zipper video which is a great learning tool if you haven't sewn and invisible zip before,  These are my favourite form of zip and I would hands down sew one of these over a standard zip but don't even consider doing it without and invisible zipper foot.

My final tip is to have a piece of paper ready to write alterations on so next time you make the pattern you will remember the little changes.   I made the V slightly less deep- I reduced the seam to 1/4" instead of 5/8" as my party bags are not as jam packed as they used to be!  I didn't want too much xylophone rib chest on display.  I also lengthened the skirt by 1 1/4".  I made a UK size 10 and it was a good fit.  I checked the waistband first rather than make a muslin and this is a great way to give a skirt or the skirt pattern of a dress and quick test for fit.

In this shot I am not trying to look like a poseur I promise.  Working with a timer app and my ipad these photos are a little hit and miss.  I must have taken 30 to come out with these ones!

Oh sun, where are you now? 

For those going to Festival of Quilts I look forward to hearing all about it, have a great time!  If you are interested in Art Gallery Fabrics, Annie at Village Haberdashery stocks LillyBelle and the new Pat Bravo Indie range and Hantex- the UK distributors have a UK stockist list here