Last of the summer wardrobe

The extended summer has been a joy here and some summer clothes that I made towards the end of August are still seeing lots of wear,  These are both patterns that I've made before, stalwarts if you like, where I have perfected the fit or style to just how I want it.  

Starting with the Belcarra, made like this one and this one.   I used a metre of Nani Iro double gauze Pon Pocho in cream peach.  I did have to do some creative cutting to squeeze it out of such a short length and make the most of the pattern. 

The only change was that I sewed the raglan seams down around ¼" either side of the seam line and I made the sleeve cuff slightly bigger along the long edge and it attaches just that little bit more easily. 

I have made three Belcarra's- and considering it was a pattern that I wasn't especially taken with on first glance, it has been the perfect summer top and uses such a small amount of fabric.  It is especially good to use with an expensive fabric that you can't afford to buy a lot of!

The skirt is my second version of Grains De Couture Opale Maxi from this book.   I made the pockets slightly deeper and did a different zig zag of stitching to hold the front pleats.  The fabric is Oakshott Seasons shot cotton in pink early rose and is currently on sale at Oakshott.  It is the same weight as the Colourshott fabrics and needs a good prewash as some of the colour will be lost on the first couple of washes.  The piping was a scrap of Elements in a very pale pink.  I made my piping using a little fusible hem web rather than sewing it together- I saw this tip somewhere ages ago, makes it all come together a little faster!

Instead of my usual helper, Mindy came in for a few photos.  She is generally pretty camera shy and a bit of an old lady at fifteen, but age has made her increasingly mellow and she still has a kittenish side.

I'm hoping to get a dress sewn by Saturday to wear at the next local sewing meet up, something with a hint of Autumn ...

'Belcarra' Sewaholic Pattern review

A basic woven T style top is a holy grail for me.  Something short sleeved, slightly fitted, not tent like, relaxed and suitable for tucking in and wearing out.  I have considered the Scout but I think it is meant to be a looser fit rather than a fitted one so I haven't tried it.  When the Belcarra came out hot on the heels of the Gabriola, I raised an eyebrow and had a think.  The PDF pushed me over the edge and I thought I would give it a try.  I was really pleased with the result.

Let's back pedal a little here. I had reservations.  The pattern seemed to take a lot of pages for a simple top and there are large wastage borders on the PDF.  On the upside, there is a great use of grids on the pattern as well as the usual tester print size box and it did jigsaw together well.  As the each raglan sleeve has a front and a back piece, there are a surprising number of pattern pieces although you only need print what you need- there are variation sleeves and cuffs for different looks.

I sewed view A with the addition of a pocket.  The instructions are detailed and have clear diagrams plus there is a sew-along for extra support.  After a little consultation on the sew-along fitting comments, I didn't do a bust adjustment.  I cut a size 4 initially (the fit is quite generous) but I made changes.

I ended up taking all of the sides in to size 2, and size 0 over the hips straightening out the curve.  I generally find that a hip curve seam doesn't work on me, I need more of a gentle diagonal from waist to hip.  The sleeves are trickier than they look, they need easing to fit and to match the notches but it is this that gives the drape and fluidity to the top. The cuffs are a little tricky too, I needed to go slowly but they worked first time and are a neat finish.  They are cut on the bias so would be great in a contrasting stripe.

At the neckline, I used a linen bias binding and took a smaller seam to make the neck a little higher and keep my bra straps under wraps- seemed to work out just right although this area is easy to alter and is detailed in the sew along.  

My fabric is a mongrel mix of unknown linen and something manmade but it  has good floppy drape to it and that is something this top really benefits from.  I would not sew this in quilting cotton, even Art Gallery quilting cotton.  It needs double gauze or lawn or even silk.  A lightweight viscose jersey would be good too although I'm not sure how the neck finish would work.  Hopefully that is covered in the sew-along.

I took 1.5" off the hemline at the bottom and turned up a 1.5" hem (with quarter inch raw edge turned under).  Now I've worn it out to the beach for a dog walk, I can whole heartedly give it the thumbs up.  This is the short sleeved basic that I have been looking for!    It is a relatively quick sew which gives you time to sew everything really carefully for a good quality finish- no buttons, no zips!  I didn't use french seams as each inner seam is curved and I didn't want to compromise this so I served the raw edges.  It is a well designed pattern, deceptively simple and nicely cut.  I can't wait to try more, especially the sleeves with tuck detail.

Details

Pattern: Sewaholic Belcarra Available here as paper pattern, here as PDF
Fabric: Linen mix.  Other suggestions are lawn, voile, double gauze, lighter weight jersey
Size: Cut size 4 upper body, size 2 at the side seams/underarms grading to 0 at lower hips side seam.
Modifications:  Removed 1.5" at hem.  Sewed ¼" seam at neck where bias finished the edge

Me Made May Weeks 2-3: Everything Else

Self photography is a tricky business so what follows is mainly a selection of dodgy selfie iphone shots with some of my weeks 2/3 Me Made May 13 outfits.  I made this Airelle top a few weeks back with some Grayson Perry Liberty lawn which was an ebay bargain.  It needs a proper photo as it is a lovely slightly fitted blouse and has really given me a new pattern company to love- Deer and Doe.

I made a size 38 (UK 10) and altered the bust.  Although I am narrow in the chest I hate any sort of restriction in the sleeves or shoulders so I find this size and taking in the sides and the chest works best and is my standard adjustment for lots of tops.  There are waist and back darts for gentle shaping and the shoulder line is created by front and back yoke.  The sleeves are a lovely fit, especially around the armscye/armhole.  I did manage randomly place two of the central flower motifs rather creatively placed like pasties on my front! 

 It's a little gappy around the V so on the next one I will adjust it on the front at the shoulder by the neck so this lies flat. I reduced a little fullness on the pattern piece by taping down with washi tape. I generally use Swedish tracing paper for pattern pieces.  Tracing is not my favourite part of dress making and this makes life easier.  It is soft and strong, does't crinkle and tea like paper and take up loads of room flapping around.  Its popular stuff and hard to get in the UK, Annie has had some in and it has already sold but more is coming.

I made this Wiksten tank a couple of months back using Field Study Rayon bought here.   The fabric practically falls on the body, it clings and flows in a very flattering way.  It is also tricky to cut- scissors rather than my usual rotary cutter preference.  It needs gentle handling and sharp pins as it will snag easily.  

As a result, I went with an easy pattern shape.  No darts so good for a small bust, although  I found that as rayon drapes so well, the tank came up looking a little big and I could have gone down a size- I can't wear it without something underneath as it looks too loose but the print is so pretty and the flow of the fabric is such a pleasure to wear, I am happy to layer it.

Sometimes I can persuade my daughter to take pics.  This is my latest Lonsdale skirt made again with Anna Maria Horner Field Study but this time linen/cotton from here.

This is incredible fabric to work with, quite heavy but with lovely drape and flow.  It holds a crease from the iron but doesn't crease when you are sitting or holding it and the pattern works in both directions so the 60" wide fabric is perfect for an A-line maxi like this.  Size 6 with the waist sitting low, no pattern alterations. Mmmm, swishy...

I made these PJ pants in preparation for my Fat Quarterly retreat class.  I have 3 pairs, all a little different and a 4th pair planned to show the construction techniques involved.  There area few alternations to the original Simplicity pattern which are part of the class- adding leg hem cuffs, adding a wider part elastic/ part draw waist tie.  These were made entirely from thrifted fabric, soft twill weave florals.

And finally a dress from last year, Simplicity Cynthia Rowley 1801.  I like this dress, good pockets, the right length, gathers front and back and not at the sides on the skirt all works well but I do lack the fun bags at the front and if I fitted this really well it would not be flattering.  I wore this on a little shopping trip with my sis.  We tried on stacks of clothes in a local dress agency and gave each other honest opinion- yay or nay on how we looked.  I came out from the changing room in this dress and she shook her head- no not that one.  I had to point out this is what I came in.  Its alright, she's my sis, I forgive her and she has a point!