My Simple Folk Applique Quilt

It's been a long time coming!  Started January 2018, finished September 2020  my Simple Folk quilt from Sarah Fielke's Block of the month 2018 is now complete.  We had a delayed weekend away in late September so I took it with us to get some pretty pictures...

It has been quite a journey working my way through all the blocks, then the lengthy assembly process but I've loved it.  I chose this block of the month because I wanted to improve my appliqué skills- all the picture motifs are needle turn appliqué and I loved how Sarah's design made the whole quilt sing rather than focusing on a centre and working outwards.  I had a clear vision for this when I started but it is so much more impactful than I ever imagined!  It was quilted by Trudi Wood and she painstakingly freehand quilted around every animal and motif and added some gentle geometric shapes around the framing shapes.  She understood exactly what I wanted when I didn't truly know what I wanted!

It was a long time coming but definitely worth it.  Sarah Fielke's block of the month combines written instructions and photos with video tutorials. She's just started trailing picture hints of her 2021 BOM on her Instagram if any of you are tempted!

Foundation Paper Piecing returns: Mug Rugs

I've been returning to foundation paper piecing again after a long break.  I had a commission which I'm currently working on- can't show that I'm afraid- but I can show you the FPP pattern I've designed especially for an online interactive CraftyMonkies class.  

The pattern is for a mug rug.  There's a choice of mugs- plain or striped, and choice of text and these reflect easier and harder skills that I'll cover in class along with sharing as many paper-piecing tips as I can in the three-hour class!  If you're tempted to join in, you will be very welcome.  The class runs on Saturday 8th August, 10-1pm BST and bookings are welcome from anywhere in the world, find all the details here, scroll down.   

If you are a first-time Zoom class participant, don't panic! CraftyMonkies classes have an experienced host, Rachel, who settles you into class, sorts out technical niggles and controls sound and vision! This means that everyone gets their chance to interact without being talked over and to ask the question you really want to ask You 'll be able to have a close view of my hands, cutting mat and sewing machine presser foot so you can see exactly what I am doing.  It's a gentle, happy sociable experience too.  I'm really missing my sewing meet-ups at the moment and an interactive Zoom class like this is a great replacement.  

Wide Leg Trousers in Navy Twill

 It's been a while.  Lockdown life is busy.  I've been doing lots of crafty social media for others and that doesn't leave me much time for my own!  Plus we've had our daughter sitting exams in the house and all of us working from home.  We're all safe and well, just missing our usual social activities and the family members we can't see, but thankful for the ones who live close by and doorstep socially distant chats!  Joni is living her best life with everyone at home and even Buffy, our cat is enjoying the extra company.  In May I managed to make a few garments I'm yet to share here so time to catch up!

I liked my M7445 wide leg denim trousers so much I made another pair.  This time in a gorgeous navy twill from Clothspot called Salthouse.  It's the most wonderful quality- deadstock from a top UK designer (think suits and multi-coloured stripes), a deep dark colour and has a little bit of ease so it worked beautifully for this pattern.   I did the same sizing and mods as my denim pair.  The hem was sewn by using a herringbone stitch which is a great stitch for a flat hem that you won't catch as your feet go through the trouser legs. M7445 such a great pattern, a real shame that it's recently discontinued, it's worth tracking down on eBay or Etsy.

 I did the same sizing and mods as my denim pair. although I didn't bind the waistband facing, I just overlocked the edge.  The hem was sewn by using a herringbone/catch stitch which is a great option for a flat hem that you won't catch as your feet go through the trouser legs and the stitches hardly show on the right side of the fabric.  M7445 such a great pattern, a real shame that it's recently discontinued, it's worth tracking down on eBay or Etsy.

Back soon with more clothing makes.  I'll leave you with a group of young ducks we spotted on our most recent walk by the river.  Over the lockdown months, we've seen young ducklings and they're growing up quickly!

Time Passing

Where are we now?  Many weeks into lockdown, a slight easing of restrictions in the UK but for our household, little has changed.  We are mainly staying in.  Husband is working from home, daughter is studying and taking University exams at home, I am also working from home too working on social media stuff for gorgeous fabric store Clothspot and also for a new venture, CraftyMonkies & their online crafty workshops (including sewing, quilting, papercraft and screenprinting!) and lots of sewing.  

Twins were born in my husbands family just before all the crazy COVID stuff began so these quilts were started mid-March, and finished a few week's later.  I used a pattern in Lori Holt's Spelling Bee book and stash fabrics.   I added a couple of teal/turquoise prints bought at the last meet-up I went to in March.  I wanted some subtle colour differences between the two but also a pair.  They are now with the new arrivals who are doing well.  It may be quite a while until we can see them in person but we catch up with their progress via photos and videos, they are unbelievably cute!

Last night I started a mental list of all the stuff I'd sewed since my day job stopped and we started living life at home.  My hands were aching yesterday, a bit overstrained and as I totted up my makes, I'm not surprised.  I do tend to throw myself into something in a stressful situation, often with a high degree on intensity.  This has been one of those times.  Part of me loves the time stretching ahead.  I've made so many things I've wanted to make for years.  My fabric and thread stores have provided all I've needed and my wardrobe is getting refreshed- I'll share all the makes once I get myself photographed.  And then there are the obligatory masks - mainly for others, I try to avoid situations where I would need to wear one.  I've used lawn and poplin, including Liberty to concentrate on comfort to encourage the wearer to keep it on when required.  These ones are using Monica's Happy Zombie pattern.  I've made some others mixing this pattern with the Dhurata Davies Mask.  I like a mask with some shaping- both these patterns use darts, and they both avoid a centre seam. 

Spring has been spectacular.  In our daily walks, we've seen so much beauty.  Our little city is so quiet right now and the pathways are often less frequented than the parks and open spaces so we've seen many beautiful sights, often unexpected.   Most of the time, I try not to think far ahead, just concentrate on the day we are in and enjoy it.  The time together has been a treasure and I feel very lucky.  But I won't lie, some days I'm flat, tired, worried, scared and on those days I hide away, sleep the time off if I can.  Then the feeling subsides, I make stuff, work, cook, garden (not this one, ours is a tiny courtyard), walk Joni and repeat.  I try not to dwell, just keep on keeping on and looking for the positives.

Book review: Sewing Basics for Everybody by Wendy Ward

Wendy Ward is one of the most reliable voices in sewing today. She released Sewing Basics for Everybody earlier this year and the blog hop promo tour is currently active.  I wasn't able to take part this time as I had work commitments scheduled at this time (that was back in the pre lockdown life!) but I did very kindly receive a copy to review.  I find that with each of Wendy's books, the style gets closer to her true aesthetic and this book really feels like her functional style has been given the freedom to create a modern utilitarian capsule wardrobe.  The keyword in the title is 'Every': this book is based on five core basic patterns with full variations and instructions to make twenty different designs in woven and knitted fabrics for any gender, age or body shape.

The book is divided into two main parts: Techniques and Projects.  In the first section, there's lots of detailed information in writing, diagrams and tables. It's packed with a comprehensive range of tutorials that cover the key skills throughout the book from adding a bust dart to, sewing welt pockets, and even stencil painting.  Then the main part of the book concentrates on the projects with a chunky chapter (including variations) devoted to each of the five core patterns.  These sections are photo-heavy and feature a diverse range of models- different genders, ages etc.  The photos are crisp and concentrate on cropped close-ups of the garments.  

The instructions are supported by Wendy's excellent diagrams throughout like the tunic dress (below) variation of the Felix sweatshirt.

The 'Harper' pants stood out to me as a classic slouchy pant.  They reminded me of how I started sewing garments in my teens.  I would take my dad's old discarded trousers and pleat the waist and peg the legs until they fitted teenage-me (we're talking circa 1985).  I have photographic evidence somewhere!  I really like the pleated hem detail (far right purple pants) to narrow the leg. 

The Kim jumpsuit is a great style with three distinctive variations.  Fiona from Diary of a Chain Stitcher has made a great vintage workwear version.

As with Wendy's other books, there are full-size pattern pieces to trace off (some pieces need to be traced off more than one sheet) at the back of the book.  As ever with Wendy, these are garments designed to be sewn on a regular domestic sewing machine and her attention to detail with plackets. cuffs, pockets, zips, linings and more will either teach you new skills or brush up your existing ones

Read my other reviews of Wendy's books:

Beginner's Guide to Sewing Knits

Beginner's Guide to Making Skirts

Closet Case Cielo Top in Sky Blue Cotton Crepe

This is my second Closet Case Cielo top.  I made the first last summer as a test piece with some left-over navy double gauze (from this skirt)  I chose the short sleeve version and the end result was meh. A boxy, non-descript top that I wore when I couldn't find anything else to work but a bit too boxy, the neck looked too wide and the overall look looked big rather than oversized.  I did like some of the details - the back shoulders have an interesting extra section- so I resolved to try the more dramatic long sleeve version with another fabric.   Here it is and I love it!

This is a size 3 made in cotton crepe from my stash, several years old and a good weight and drape for this top.  I did attempt the full lantern sleeve but it looked better without the low cuff sections.  I did make a change to this version, I took 1/4" off the centre front and centre back of the bodice pattern pieces.  this makes a 1" reduction to the diameter of the top and works better on my frame.  There's a boxy quality but it's slightly more fitted.  It's an adjustment I've used a few times- here on the Merchant and Mills Camber Dress, and here on my second Named Clothing Kanerva top.   The only other change was adding a high back adjustment.  The sleeve and bodice hems are overlocked and turned up by 1/2".  I used the bias binding finish on the neck.

It's a top that definitely benefits from the right fabric choice.  I do have some viscose crepe with a similar weight to this and I'm tempted to try a dress version mashing the full elbow-length sleeve top with the lower half of the Fibremood Holly dress, complete with a tie.  We'll see if that happens anytime soon!  I'm finding that my concentration is leading to mistakes with my lockdown sewing projects. 

Marilla Walker's Belmenite Dress in Chambray

When Marilla Walker released her Belemnite pattern late last year,  I was smitten.  The 70s aesthetic, statement sleeves, relaxed fit-and-flare shape, the midi length - what's not to like?  I had a long length of medium weight chambray in my stash, plus a matching zip and thread so no additional purchases needed.  As part of my social media work for ClothSpot, Alice, Judy and myself each chose three garments for #makenine2020, a new year sewing community initiative started by Rochelle of Lucy Lucille.  The Belemnite was one of mine, along with the completed McCalls M74445 wide-leg trousers and the Closet Case Cielo top pattern (pics & post of that coming soon).  

I opted for view A.  The sleeves are set-in flat with a single fabric piece for each sleeve which joins the front/back bodice sections.  It's a really interesting construction method which works well with flat fell seams (how-to notes on these are included in the instructions) for a neat method that encloses the raw edges and adds topstitch detail.  I made a size 3 grading to size 4 at the waist, matching my body measurements to the pattern.  I made a couple of changes.  Firstly I made a small, high round back alteration, just 1/4", using this method.  It stops the front neck pulling back.  I add this change to almost every bodice that I ever make!  I also reduced the bust cup size as there is very little difference between my upper and full bust measurements.  Marilla covers detailed small and full bust adjustments in the instructions and I followed these to the letter.  They worked perfectly, the V lies flat with no gaping and the dress is an excellent fit.

The belt is long enough to tie at the front or back- there's a slight change in look with each tie style. I did toy with the idea of adding pockets but left them this time as I wasn't quite sure of the skirt's fullness.  I might add them to the next Belemnite.  The skirt deserves a special mention.  I love the lantern shape, subtle and much more economical use of fabric than long a-line skirt pieces.  I like the midi-length too.  It's a very wearable dress.  I wore it to The Stitch Festival which feels like many moons ago but instead was at the end of February.  I've been wearing it at home on lockdown and its a comfortable wear which makes me feel like I'm making an effort, especially on my daily walk, and not just living in yoga pants.  I would like to try the button-down front option with shorter sleeves so I have a dress to wear indoors in warmer weather, and outdoors when that time comes...I have a long length of Liberty lawn which might just work...I have loved Marilla's instructions and her pattern drafting so I am tempted to try more of her patterns, maybe the Maya top next?