Monday, 25 September 2017

Merchant & Mills Camber Dress in Nani Iro Double Gauze

September sun, when it actually emerges, gives the best light!  These photos were taken by my daughter this morning, no adjustments needed as the colours are singing and dancing.  I made this Camber dress (by Merchant & Mills) at the start of the month with some Nani Iro double gauze in a gorgeous blue from Eternal Maker that has been waiting for its destiny for over a year! I didn't have sufficient for a standard layout with the pattern piece grainlines following the selvedges so I had to go rogue; the back below the bodice was placed perpendicular to the selvedge with no ill effects and I used all of the 1.5m length, only tiny scraps remained.

Making Notes:
I made a size 8 and a toile first so this dress was made with the following alterations based on 33" bust, 27" waist, 36" hip:
  • Lengthened the bust dart to be the equivalent of size 6 and altered the sides accordingly so the point meets the size 8 dart markings at the side seam.
  • Reduced the front and back bodice pieces and back yoke at the centre fold mark by 1/2" on each piece- the width was too wide for me and my apex to apex measurement is narrow at 7". I adjusted the neckline so it remained the same, so the shoulder seam width is reduced a little at the neckline front and back. This is a significant reduction of 2" around the garment so creates a more fitted look than the original style.
  • I reduced the side seams from below the armhole to a maximum of 3/4" at the waist and blended into the hip line (hipline reduced by 1/4")
  • I reduced the A-line side seams from hip to hem so they were a straight diagonal rather than curving outward.
The neckline and back yoke construction is particularly neat. Bias binding finishes the front neckline and a clever bit of seam work over the shoulders means everything is covered and stabilised by the back bodice.  The neckline is quite high but that's fine by me and it would be easy to lower, just allow a longer piece of bias binding, I used a scrap of Liberty lawn.

It's a great pattern to showcase a beautiful print with minimal interruptions.  The dress is fitted enough to feel flattering and loose enough for comfort. The photos below show the moment where Lottie, our dog, joined in on the photo shoot, hence the facial expressions!

I found the same Nani Iro double gauze Fuccra: Rakuen print here  with more options here and in the UK, here.
Soft Sole clogs are from Lotta from Stockholm, these sometimes come up as seconds too.
Camber Set - top and dress pattern is available at The Draper's Daughter and Village Haberdashery.
I'm really happy with the finished dress and it's a great basis for tops too - it's going to be a much used pattern!


  1. Beautiful dress on you, and I LOVE your shoes! Thanks for identifying them for us! :-)

  2. Lovely fabric and colours - that style really suits you and goes well with your shoes - pity your dog didn't make the final edit :)

  3. This dress pattern and the fabric you used for it are a perfect match for you. While I don't understand the modifications you made it sounds like you do.
    This I think would be a very nice easy to wear pull over shirt, like a woven tee shirt
    I live in a warmer climate than you (west coast of USA) so I could also see this dress a bit shorter for summer wear.

    This dress is such a great fit for you .....if only I were 30 years younger and many pounds lighter wear it so well

  4. It's a gorgeous combination of pattern and print! I like the back yoke and bias binding detail, I'm going to ponder how that's done! And I like the high neckline, means you don't have to worry about your front getting sunburnt!

  5. This is stunning! I love the fabric.


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