Wide Leg Trousers in Navy Twill

 It's been a while.  Lockdown life is busy.  I've been doing lots of crafty social media for others and that doesn't leave me much time for my own!  Plus we've had our daughter sitting exams in the house and all of us working from home.  We're all safe and well, just missing our usual social activities and the family members we can't see, but thankful for the ones who live close by and doorstep socially distant chats!  Joni is living her best life with everyone at home and even Buffy, our cat is enjoying the extra company.  In May I managed to make a few garments I'm yet to share here so time to catch up!

I liked my M7445 wide leg denim trousers so much I made another pair.  This time in a gorgeous navy twill from Clothspot called Salthouse.  It's the most wonderful quality- deadstock from a top UK designer (think suits and multi-coloured stripes), a deep dark colour and has a little bit of ease so it worked beautifully for this pattern.   I did the same sizing and mods as my denim pair.  The hem was sewn by using a herringbone stitch which is a great stitch for a flat hem that you won't catch as your feet go through the trouser legs. M7445 such a great pattern, a real shame that it's recently discontinued, it's worth tracking down on eBay or Etsy.

 I did the same sizing and mods as my denim pair. although I didn't bind the waistband facing, I just overlocked the edge.  The hem was sewn by using a herringbone/catch stitch which is a great option for a flat hem that you won't catch as your feet go through the trouser legs and the stitches hardly show on the right side of the fabric.  M7445 such a great pattern, a real shame that it's recently discontinued, it's worth tracking down on eBay or Etsy.

Back soon with more clothing makes.  I'll leave you with a group of young ducks we spotted on our most recent walk by the river.  Over the lockdown months, we've seen young ducklings and they're growing up quickly!

Closet Case Cielo Top in Sky Blue Cotton Crepe

This is my second Closet Case Cielo top.  I made the first last summer as a test piece with some left-over navy double gauze (from this skirt)  I chose the short sleeve version and the end result was meh. A boxy, non-descript top that I wore when I couldn't find anything else to work but a bit too boxy, the neck looked too wide and the overall look looked big rather than oversized.  I did like some of the details - the back shoulders have an interesting extra section- so I resolved to try the more dramatic long sleeve version with another fabric.   Here it is and I love it!

This is a size 3 made in cotton crepe from my stash, several years old and a good weight and drape for this top.  I did attempt the full lantern sleeve but it looked better without the low cuff sections.  I did make a change to this version, I took 1/4" off the centre front and centre back of the bodice pattern pieces.  this makes a 1" reduction to the diameter of the top and works better on my frame.  There's a boxy quality but it's slightly more fitted.  It's an adjustment I've used a few times- here on the Merchant and Mills Camber Dress, and here on my second Named Clothing Kanerva top.   The only other change was adding a high back adjustment.  The sleeve and bodice hems are overlocked and turned up by 1/2".  I used the bias binding finish on the neck.

It's a top that definitely benefits from the right fabric choice.  I do have some viscose crepe with a similar weight to this and I'm tempted to try a dress version mashing the full elbow-length sleeve top with the lower half of the Fibremood Holly dress, complete with a tie.  We'll see if that happens anytime soon!  I'm finding that my concentration is leading to mistakes with my lockdown sewing projects. 

Yay, trousers at last! M7445 Palmer Pletsch Wide Leg Pant in Denim

I have only one pair of trousers in my wardrobe, these dating from 2014.  I don't have any jeans- I know, it's weird.   But I hate the feel of a skinny jean, I don't do much in the way of clothes shopping and when I go to the beach or dog walking, I usually put on joggers or yoga pants. I have had a longing for a comfortable stylish pair of denim wide-leg trousers and I have been looking out for a pattern.  I'd see Katie of What Katies Sews reporting on a couple of pairs, and Diane of Dream Cut Sew who had created a couple of gorgeous looking versions- both inspired me!  As part of my social media work for Clothspot, the team of owner Alice, accountant-in-chief Judy, and me are taking part in #makenine2020, we selected nine garments (three each) to make this year and McCalls 7445 is my first!

This is a Palmer Pletsch pattern which uses their tissue fitting method before cutting into any fabric. The aim is that any obvious alterations can be done to the tissue first.  Large seam allowances are built in to provide extra fabric for fitting- on this pattern, the leg seams all feature 1" seam allowance.

The tissue fitting was a little hit and miss. It gave me a broad idea of length/width fit but once I moved on to the fabric, a 13oz denim with a little elastane for ease, it was a lot easier to feel how the final fit would be. 

I decided I wanted the faced waist finish and moved the zip from the centre to the side.  I also opted for a concealed zip. I cut a size 12 which was closest to my body measurements.  I only needed minor adjustments,, a slight reduction of the crotch seam to reduce bagginess at the front, but I did machine baste the seams several times to get to that point!  

To stop the waistline stretching out with all the trying on, I sewed a 3/8" woven black tape to the seam line for stability. When I did add the facing near the end of construction, it was quite a lot smaller and needed a lot of easing in. I also found the waist sat lower than I thought it would looking at the pattern images. I might add a waistband on a future pair.

 I like to make the insides comfortable to wear and pretty for me to look at so I bound the facing edges and the crotch seam with bias Liberty lawn strips and a Hong Kong finish, as well as adding a zipper tab cover.

The only other alteration was to take 7/8" off the length, I'm 5'5" tall.  

When I add a concealed/invisible zip, I've found life is a lot easier if I sew a double run of stitches. To prepare, I add lightweight interfacing strips to the wrong side of what will form the zipper seam, allow to cool and overlock the fabric edge.  I then pin the first half of the zip in place and with a standard zipper foot, a long stitch and the outer edge of the zip just meeting the overlocker stitches and I sew the very edge of the zip to the seam fabric. One half of the zipper is now nicely secured so I change to the invisible zip foot and sew a second line of stitches close to the zipper teeth.  Repeat on the other side. 

They are exactly what I wanted.  Denim, comfortable, stylish and incredibly wearable. I wasn't sure about the angled pocket initially but now it's one of my favourite features.  The vertical opening section is stitched down to keep the pockets flat but still useable, plus I used lighter-weight denim for the facing to reduce bulk.  

They fit into the much-worn category of my wardrobe already.  My next pair are from this exceptional quality dark navy cotton twill from Clothspot.  It has a touch of elastane for ease just like the denim so I think it will work well.  Yay for trouser success! I'm wearing this pair with a favourite striped version of the top from 'She Wears the Pants'.