Friday, 14 August 2015

Butterick Sew Lisette B6183 Blue Chambray 70's pants

 Sometimes I see a pattern and I just know it's going to work and Butterick B6183 was one of those patterns.  It's by Liesl Gibson under her Sew Lisette brand.  The pattern cover photo features a cropped version of these trousers but full length are my preference, I don't really suit a cropped pant, especially a wide legged one, but I can work a flare!


The fabric is a light denim bought as a long length remnant from ebay a while ago.  It's twill weave but more of a chambray weight in a glorious 70s shade of mid blue.  I did make a test version in some grey poplin and I tweaked the pattern slightly.  I shortened the leg by 1" at the length adjustment point.  I took in the lower crotch a tiny bit and I shaped the straight waistband slightly- see the modifications lower down.  Otherwise, size 12 and the fit on my 27" waist and 36" hips was pretty good.  Obligatory booty shot...


The waist sits just below my natural waistline and I thought it might be a little restricting but not at all.  They are incredibly comfortable.  I don't have many trousers in my wardrobe and I've been keeping an eye out for a pattern I can make repeat pairs from and I think this is it.  I don't suit a tailored or skinny leg.  My legs and hips are curvy and the flared shape balances them and makes me look taller.


The construction is straightforward and quick too.  I love topstitching on relatively plain clothing so I added a few extra lines-double lines on the pockets and wider parallel lines on the hems and waistband.  The clogs are low wood brown nubucks from Lotta of Stockholm, I followed the seconds section every day until these came up!


I have no straightness at the waist on my body so I shaped the waistband to prevent the gaping that I got with the straight waistband on the test pair.  I created a small dart at the right side of the waistband where there is no fastener.  This is ½"across at the widest point and starts and stops at the seam allowance on each edge.  Once the long edges are brought together it make a slight slope on one side of the waistband.


On the other side, which overlaps above a concealed zip with a large hook clasp fastening, I drew in half the dart to shape the edge to replace the straight seam.  I only did this on one of the edges as this covers up the other!


If I am having a bloating sort of day, I just undo the clasp.  On a normal day it is comfortable fastened.


A used a little Liberty lawn lining from a salvaged shirt on the pocket facings...


Despite my rather static facial expression, these are happy pants!  The length works with low clogs and flat sandals although I would probably avoid wet weather, I don't want wet, flappy flares.   I am wearing it with one of last years Belcarra tops.


 I really love them!  What trouser pattern would you recommend?

sib blog

13 comments:

  1. These are great. They look fantastic in the light denim. I really struggle to find trousers to fit in RTW and I have been frightened of making them which is silly it's only fabric. I made a pair of elastic waisr trees recently and now I am eagerly looking for the next easy pattern.

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    1. I find trousers a little intimidating too but making a test pair out of the cheapest cotton is so helpful, and like you say, it is only fabric. RTW are often unforgiving!

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  2. Love the pockets! The topstitching and little flash of liberty are such nice touches.

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  3. They look so good on you! Love the touch of liberty!

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  4. I love the surprise of the paisley Liberty pocket lining! Very cute trousers on you, Kerry!

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  5. These look gorgeous on you!

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  6. They're a fabulous fit and really suit you - looking forward to seeing your next pair!

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  7. I made chambray trousers and my handmade wardrobe came alive. Every top I had ever made could be worn with them and it was like wearing jeans to the office but not all at the same time. I love your pocket details. Jo x

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  8. I love these trousers, the fabric is lovely, they look so cool and really suit you! I am a similar shape to you and suit a flared trouser. I am making two pairs of Simplicity trousers, one in a chambray and one in an Irish linen. A flare is the way to go!

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  9. Ooh - even better now I can see the fabric close up! These are great. And so are the shoes. If only I still had long hair we could be long distance twins ;)

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  10. This is the best entry on these pants. Just bought some light denim/rayon blend and you've inspired me. Thanks Kerry!

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