Butterick Sew Lisette B6183 Blue Chambray 70's pants

 Sometimes I see a pattern and I just know it's going to work and Butterick B6183 was one of those patterns.  It's by Liesl Gibson under her Sew Lisette brand.  The pattern cover photo features a cropped version of these trousers but full length are my preference, I don't really suit a cropped pant, especially a wide legged one, but I can work a flare!

The fabric is a light denim bought as a long length remnant from ebay a while ago.  It's twill weave but more of a chambray weight in a glorious 70s shade of mid blue.  I did make a test version in some grey poplin and I tweaked the pattern slightly.  I shortened the leg by 1" at the length adjustment point.  I took in the lower crotch a tiny bit and I shaped the straight waistband slightly- see the modifications lower down.  Otherwise, size 12 and the fit on my 27" waist and 36" hips was pretty good.  Obligatory booty shot...

The waist sits just below my natural waistline and I thought it might be a little restricting but not at all.  They are incredibly comfortable.  I don't have many trousers in my wardrobe and I've been keeping an eye out for a pattern I can make repeat pairs from and I think this is it.  I don't suit a tailored or skinny leg.  My legs and hips are curvy and the flared shape balances them and makes me look taller.

The construction is straightforward and quick too.  I love topstitching on relatively plain clothing so I added a few extra lines-double lines on the pockets and wider parallel lines on the hems and waistband.  The clogs are low wood brown nubucks from Lotta of Stockholm, I followed the seconds section every day until these came up!

I have no straightness at the waist on my body so I shaped the waistband to prevent the gaping that I got with the straight waistband on the test pair.  I created a small dart at the right side of the waistband where there is no fastener.  This is ½"across at the widest point and starts and stops at the seam allowance on each edge.  Once the long edges are brought together it make a slight slope on one side of the waistband.

On the other side, which overlaps above a concealed zip with a large hook clasp fastening, I drew in half the dart to shape the edge to replace the straight seam.  I only did this on one of the edges as this covers up the other!

If I am having a bloating sort of day, I just undo the clasp.  On a normal day it is comfortable fastened.

A used a little Liberty lawn lining from a salvaged shirt on the pocket facings...

Despite my rather static facial expression, these are happy pants!  The length works with low clogs and flat sandals although I would probably avoid wet weather, I don't want wet, flappy flares.   I am wearing it with one of last years Belcarra tops.

 I really love them!  What trouser pattern would you recommend?

Liesl+Co Cinema Dress: with Queen Sue's Laura Ashley fabric

As soon as I saw the Cinema Dress come up as a new pattern release in Liesl Gibson's Instagram feed, I knew I was going to make it.  I love long dresses and here was a pattern with a long hem, a gentle princess line seam over the chest (easy to adjust for a small bust) an a line skirt, and a yoke- I love a yoke!  It is at the higher price end for a PDF pattern but it is extremely well designed and well written, and having made a lot of PDF independent designer patterns, I could really see the difference especially in the instructions.

Every detail is covered including all the seam finishing for each and every seam.  When pockets are fitted into a seam, I always have to think carefully how they will be finished- what will be enclosed and at which stage; some bits need finishing before they are sewn, some after- but no worries with this pattern as Liesl tells you what to do and when to do it.    

I did reduce the curved seam over the bust by a small amount.   I didn't make a tester dress, I was confident this was going to work and that there would be enough room in the seams to tweak the sizing.  I had seen Daniela's version at Ivy Arch and checked her sizing and it confirmed my hunch that I would be a size 2 on the upper body and size 4 at the waist and hips.  Like her, I omitted the notch.  I don't like to wear low cut styles- not a great look for me.  The alteration is a cinch to do- you just keep sewing along the curved seam rather than creating the notch.  I didn't make any further alterations.  I made the longer version, view B.

The contrast material is a gorgeous piece of mid 1970s  Laura Ashley cotton with a print reminiscent of the wonderful Bath costume museum exhibition from last summer.    I won it rather fortuitously at the very first Sewing Directory Exeter meet up and donated by Queen Sue- she knows who she is.   I've been saving it for something special and this is exactly the right dress for it.

The blue fabric is Robert Kaufman Interweave Chambray in Royal.  It is heavier than many of the floaty RK indigo chambrays around at the moment but still soft and a great weight for cooler weather; easy to work with too.

I even conquered the crappy buttonhole setting on my Janome by using a rounded end buttonhole and foot pressure reduced to 1 so the fabric didn't get stuck and mess the sensor up- for anyone with a Janome with an automatic buttonhole, I hope that makes sense.

I have slight reservations about the welt pocket placement- you know what I'm saying, but they are neat and useful so I'll take my thoughts out of the gutter.  There's a strong 1970s vibe with this dress, especially with the fabric choices, and maybe a touch of the Prairie too, and you know that all adds up to an aesthetic that I feel very comfortable with.

You can find a Sew- along for the dress here.  Liesl's pattern has its origin in the girl's version of this style, 'Hide and Seek Dress'.   Thankyou to my daughter as ever for using her GCSE iArt/photography skills with the pics, taken a few weeks back xxx