Sunday, 8 June 2014

Sewing Camisole Slip- Butterick 6031

Sewing successful undies was part of my self inflicted Me-Made-May pledge (alongside sewing a coat but Shh!  I haven't started that yet!).  When Gretchen's pattern, kit and sew along was released I knew it was my perfect opportunity to conquer this challenge.  These are the results:
 



I did sew a test garment as I was making reducing the cup size to an A and I learnt a lot- as you always do on the test run.  I made the cami and knicks in some spotty cotton/elastane jersey.   I did change the knicker style, especially at the front as I made each pair.  The easiest way to do this is to put them on as you sew and then to draw the leg line that you prefer as you are wearing them with a soft pencil.  The original style is a short style so there is quite a bit of fabric at the front.  I left the back as it was for full coverage!


My machine is fine sewing standard cotton jersey but previous unsuccessful  knicker sewing activities have struggled with any lycra mix fabrics, chewing up the fabric and skipping stitches no matter what adjustments I made.  This time, two realisations: 
1. Lightning stitch is great for sewing knits (stitch 6 and 7 on photo below).  I still used zig zag as all the lace and elastic is attached that way but the lighting stitch is strong and perfect for the side seams.  I didn't use my overlocker, I tried but it wasn't necessary and more trouble than it was worth.  
2. Ballpoint needles are great for standard jersey but for fabric with more elasticity and lycra/elastane content, a stretch needle is the business.  No more skipped stitches.  I bought mine on ebay.  Apparently the difference is to do with the needle eye- helpfully explained here on Sewbox.


My previous knicker activities have involved using picot elastic, this time the emphasis is on stretch lace and here is where I learnt something crucial to my failure last time.  The lace is overlaid on the fabric- no stretching , zig zagged on and then the base fabric is cut away behind.  Before, I have tried to sew lace and elastic on the very edge of stretch fabric and it has slipped and slid whilst I was also stretching it and stitches skipped- all disastrous.  This time, all successful.  I do use ballpoint pins and they make life easier too.


I am so thrilled with the result.  I now have a go-to pattern for a cami and a slip which works in slinky lingerie  micro jersey as well as cotton jersey. 


For future makes, the best selection of lingerie supplies appears to be on ebay, at least for UK folks- thats where I've sourced the biggest variety of stretch lace/clips etc although quality is a little variable.  Buying the kit for this did make it a much easier project than sourcing separately.




I now feel confident enough to make a mini wardrobe of knicks! 

sib blog

18 comments:

  1. Your next career as a lingerie model is in the cards.
    Congrats!

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  2. You look lovely in it. If I ever get my finger out I will have a matching set!

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  3. Absolutely beautiful. I only wish I was half so talented.

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  4. That looks gorgeous. I have a knicker kit to try some knickers but would never have the confidence to try a camisole top or lingerie like this because of my boobage. I was looking at the Wilksten tank earlier and wondering if I could make it given my shape

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    1. Thankyou Jan! I found this easier than my first attempt at knickers. The pattern has a multiple cup size, although I am an A and that cup is included as the same as a B so I made the adjustment but it is all covered in the sew along. I think I would go for the Colette Sorbetto if I were you as it is darted and already designed with C cup in mind and it is free! Otherwise, the Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank as that has darts and her instructions are always very clear. The Wiksten doesn't have darts so it may not work out for such a flattering look.

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  5. So pretty and a fantastic job.

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  6. Kerry, wow, wow and wow again! All your undies look just gorgeous and I admire the work. I always thought it's not even possible to sew things like that without specialized industrial machines. I still wouldn't dare to try but at least I see it's possible. Thank you very much for sharing.

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  7. Gorgeous! May I ask where the lovely lovely spotty fabric is from?

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    1. Thankyou Louise! I bought the spotty fabric locally, its probably gone now as it was a few months ago and the shop has quite a high turn over!

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  8. Gorgeous. I love the polka dots so fun and happy! Great job it makes me wish I could sew a garment outside of dresses for my daughter :)

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  9. Ooh ooh ooh - so lovely! I am in severe need of an undies refresh - you are most inspiring!

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  10. Oh my! I feel compelled to give this style a try. I love your different versions and helpful learnings- thank you!!! Good job my sewing list is still full to bursting otherwise my spontaneity would lead me to a breakfast purchase. I'll just have to carry the inspiration around with me for a while!!

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  11. Lovely lovely undies Kerry. It seems slightly wrong saying that here! I have had my eye on that Gertie pattern for a while and I'm patiently waiting for the next Sew Direct 'sale'.There was a great underwear sewing resource list on the Sewaholic blog recently. Not just suppliers in the US/Canada. Several European sites I seem to remember.

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  12. I am so impressed! They are beautiful and perfectly made. I haven't even dared to think I could make undies but maybe some day... You are so inspirational.

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  13. The undies you've made are just too perfect! I'm amazed!

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