Sewing Camisole Slip- Butterick 6031

Sewing successful undies was part of my self inflicted Me-Made-May pledge (alongside sewing a coat but Shh!  I haven't started that yet!).  When Gretchen's pattern, kit and sew along was released I knew it was my perfect opportunity to conquer this challenge.  These are the results:

 

I did sew a test garment as I was making reducing the cup size to an A and I learnt a lot- as you always do on the test run.  I made the cami and knicks in some spotty cotton/elastane jersey.   I did change the knicker style, especially at the front as I made each pair.  The easiest way to do this is to put them on as you sew and then to draw the leg line that you prefer as you are wearing them with a soft pencil.  The original style is a short style so there is quite a bit of fabric at the front.  I left the back as it was for full coverage!

My machine is fine sewing standard cotton jersey but previous unsuccessful  knicker sewing activities have struggled with any lycra mix fabrics, chewing up the fabric and skipping stitches no matter what adjustments I made.  This time, two realisations: 

1. Lightning stitch is great for sewing knits (stitch 6 and 7 on photo below).  I still used zig zag as all the lace and elastic is attached that way but the lighting stitch is strong and perfect for the side seams.  I didn't use my overlocker, I tried but it wasn't necessary and more trouble than it was worth.  

2. Ballpoint needles are great for standard jersey but for fabric with more elasticity and lycra/elastane content, a stretch needle is the business.  No more skipped stitches.  I bought mine on ebay.  Apparently the difference is to do with the needle eye- helpfully explained here on Sewbox.

My previous knicker activities have involved using picot elastic, this time the emphasis is on stretch lace and here is where I learnt something crucial to my failure last time.  The lace is overlaid on the fabric- no stretching , zig zagged on and then the base fabric is cut away behind.  Before, I have tried to sew lace and elastic on the very edge of stretch fabric and it has slipped and slid whilst I was also stretching it and stitches skipped- all disastrous.  This time, all successful.  I do use ballpoint pins and they make life easier too.

I am so thrilled with the result.  I now have a go-to pattern for a cami and a slip which works in slinky lingerie  micro jersey as well as cotton jersey. 

For future makes, the best selection of lingerie supplies appears to be on ebay, at least for UK folks- thats where I've sourced the biggest variety of stretch lace/clips etc although quality is a little variable.  Buying the kit for this did make it a much easier project than sourcing separately.

I now feel confident enough to make a mini wardrobe of knicks! 

Rounding up Me-Made-May 14

It has been a busy month for garment sewing in Me Made May.  I made a dress, skirt, two tops and two lingerie sets.  Sewing underwear successfully was a demon I wanted to slay and thanks to Gertie's sew along, pattern and kit, I truly did.  But first, these are the outfits from days 21-30. 

Left to right in each row (pattern links will be found via these links:

Carme/Betsey Johnson wrap skirt (snap Roo!), Tova/Lonsdale skirt, vintage tunic

Tova, Belcara, Airelle/vintage Simplicity wrap skirt

Darling Ranges shirt/Betsey Johnson wrap skirt, cami vest and PJ pants, Cami dress and Sew-Ichigo Kitchen classics bag

Even today I have still worn  Me Made.  I wore Me Made every day in May- on some days just PJ pants but every day there was at least one garment and some days more. See here for mid May and early May me-mades.  I have learnt that I need to continue making more knit casual items- yoga pants would be very useful, and a few sweatshirts.  When I come home from work and change out of my work t shirt  I am more likely to wear something slouchy to walk the dog and sit and sew rather than a dress for the rest of the day.  Dresses are more of a weekend thing.  The lack of sustained hot weather did mean that some more summer dresses from my wardrobe have yet to be worn.  I'll save the lingerie report for my next post as there are quite a few pics and there is construction details and techniques to mention .  Here's a preview:

I'll end with  a shout out to all those sewists who took selfless selifes on Instagram, flickr and elsewhere (turns out that there is little fun in that beyond the age of 14) all to share their dressmaking with the wider online sewing community.  I loved seeing the patterns that popped up time an time again and finding new patterns and more importantly new people to follow and get to know a little better.  And a thank you to SoZo for being the powerhouse behind the whole concept.  See you this time next year and with a bigger  me-made wardrobe (albeit in a tiny cupboard) with more me-made knickers in it.