Wednesday, 19 October 2016

Sew Over it City Break eBook: The Molly Dress

Following on from my review of the Sew Over It City Break Capsule Wardrobe, in particular the Molly Top, here's the sequel, the Molly dress. 

I don't usually wear this sort of dress- i.e. Knit and a shift sort of shape but I've recently discovered some tights that I can tolerate; they are not tights in the classic sense and let's not even talk about the name but they work for me, and this opens up wardrobe possibilities with some autumn and winter skirts at a length other than maxi.   I used fabric from Sew Over It, a present from my husband was some fabric of my choice for my birthday last month.  I knew this would work with this style as I think it is in the eBook.  It's a soft stable jersey called City Stripe. A mix of fabric snob and sensitive skin has always put me off this fabric like this with a high manmade content but this is lovely quality, has a great feel and is a dream to work with.  It's very stable and behaves itself beautifully at all times.   I had quite a bit left over, maybe a skirt next?

I have a couple of tips for handling the stripes.  Firstly, for stripe matching when cutting out my top tip is to draw a vertical chalk line on the reverse of the opened out fabric, place the front or back main piece against the line. Pin in place and cut out the half up to the fold line, then flip it over the fold.  Match the stripes, pin again and cut. Follow the pins and you can just about see the underarm area in the camouflage picture below!

My other tip is to hand baste the neck band firstly in half to keep it folded, then hand baste it to the dress neckline. This then allows you to be very precise if sewing with an overlocker and to keep an equal distance from the seam and the parallel stripe the same all round without having to worry about anything slipping - with this level of contrast any deviation would be rather obvious.

I cut a size 8 as with the Molly Top but I did make alterations.

1. Did a rounded high back adjustment of ¼" using the Fit for Real People book.
2. Added ½" to the hem so I could take up a slightly deeper hem than the stated ⅜"- final length only slightly added to.
3. Added ⅜" to arm length to make them slightly longer for colder weather. 
4. Tapered side seam from just below underarm with a reduction of ½" at the waist front/back and on each side and tapered down to the hip  The lower skirt width is unaltered.
5. As with the Molly top I used a longer length for the neckband as the fabric wasn't especially stretchy and used the Colette neckband tutorials My neckband was 90% of neck seam length, plus seam allowances.  The neckband width was reduced by ⅜" on each long edge.  

My photos are a little lacking in smiles, I had a heavy cold at the time and I wasn't feeling my best (all recovered now) and that rather belies how happy I am with this dress!  It's comfortable and easy to wear and has that chic style that a navy stripe so easily creates. 

Sunday, 16 October 2016

The Splendid Sampler: First Stitch

Today it's my turn on to share the next block as part of the epic journey of 100 mystery Splendid Sampler block quilt.  (If you are new to the #thesplendidsampler, the basics are  here, there's still time to join in).  My block is called First Stitch and recalls my first stitch stitches from when I began to sew.

This cross-stitch style block was inspired by the beginning of my sewing journey.  I've been sewing for forty years - I started young!  My mum taught me the basics and I was lucky enough to spend my primary school years at an exceptionally creative school.  In my desk tray, along with my reading book, maths jotter and pencils, there was always some sewing and it wasn't just me, everyone in the class would have some sort of textile craft on the go.  The needle book below was a school project from when I was seven or eight, We sewed samplers on Binca canvas with wool and a classroom assistant turned them into needle books.  I'm very sentimentally attached to it and still use it today.  I was obsessed by sewing then, and nothing has changed!  

First Stitch also echoes the traditional quilt block Kentucky Chain.   I didn't know that block when I was sketching out the block but all ideas come round and round in quilting as part of its history and continuation.  To share it, I thought I 'd sew up some variations to show different colour and fabric ideas.  The reverse view below gives you a clear idea of how the block seams lie, the foundation pattern is designed to create nesting seams.  The instructions include dimensions to pre-cut your pieces so you can use your fabric more efficiently and not worry about your fabric being the 'right' size.

My original First Stitch blocks were sewn for this project last year and were made with some mystery fabrics.  Each designer was sent a selection of Moda fabrics and mine was a 19th Century repro collection (I never found out the name) and you can see how those little prints and rich colours change the feel of the block.

Block Top Tips
  • You can find the pattern link here and the  foundation paper piecing tutorials here.
  • When you cut out your paper patterns (there are four to create the four cross stitches that make up the block), you need to cut along the dividing line between sections A and B.  This leaves you with no seam allowance on these diagonal edges so make sure your fabrics extend by at least ¼".  If you precut your fabrics following the instructions, this should be easy!  Once the section is pieced, you can allow ¼" seam allowance before cutting the diagonal fabric and trim the outer edge fabric in line with the dashed paper edges.   The process is the same for section B.  I use an Add-A-Quarter ruler when paper piecing and it's very handy for adding ¼" seams like this but any quilt ruler will work fine.

  • When you join sections A to B, leave the paper intact.  There's a tick mark - a little perpendicular line at the centre of the diagonal seams on sections A and - to help you pin and line up your seams perfectly, just match and pin the tick mark and the beginning and end of each seam before stitching the seam. 
  • Once the seam is sewn, the best way to remove the paper without ripping out your stitches is to tear into the paper a little at the centre of a seam and then tear outwards.  This keeps the start and end stitches of your seam intact rather than straining them.
Here's a few other versions I sewed up, this time as part of my Farmer's Wife 1930s sampler quilt.  the quilt along is finished now and I'm about to embark on assembling the blocks.   I've places this block on point to fit with the quilt layout.

And here's the square-on view.  I love the bright pastels mixed with the 1930s prints!

For this variation, I kept it a little simpler with each cross completed in two fabrics instead of three.

Here's my blocks so far.  Seeing them all together wants me to sew some more.  Part of the joy of Splendid Sampler is that its totally up to you.  There's such a choice of blocks to sew, carrying constructions and methods and you can sew them all or dip in as the weeks' progress and just sew your favourites.  The scale of this project is so vast with over 23 000 members in the Facebook group, but at an individual level, it's just down to you the piecer, and your blocks.  Thank you to Pat and Jane for inviting me to be a part of this project.  I've been more than a little blown away by how it all took off and the management and time commitment from this amazing quilty ladies as well as the other Splendid Sampler designers!


Wednesday, 12 October 2016

Simple Sampler Week 2

Are you following the  Simple Sampler quilt along with Fiona and Julie using the tutorials I wrote for their Sewing Directory website?  It's week two and the blocks are log cabin and courthouse steps.  Both rotary cut, 12inch finished blocks and straightforward.  I've been raiding my scrap bags: 

  Check out #simplesamplerQAL on social media and find out more here at Sewing Directory.

Monday, 10 October 2016

October at Villlage Haberdashery

Time for my monthly visit to Village Haberdashery and as always happens, as soon as I start to chose some fabrics from the newest arrival, a palette starts to form and a matching fabric selection appears. There's a mix of jersey, lawn, linen, chambray, yarn dyed broadcloth and quilting cottons, so something for everyone.

From left to right, row by row:
  1. Nightfall, Lunation in Dark. by Maureen Cracknell for Art Gallery Fabrics.  Available as a super smooth quilting cotton and also in a wide width silky voile
  2. Cloud9 Window Dressing and Checks Please.  Checks and plaids have been such a hit this year and that's no surprise as these yarn dyed cottons are truly versatile for quilting, clothing , bags and more.  The colours are bright and uplifting.  Personally, I think any of these would make amazing pyjamas.
  3. Observer, Speck in Bronze, April Rhodes.   This is been promoted heavily at the moment, just before quilt market but there's no denying it's understated cool aesthetic.  It certainly looks great in clothingn and homewares.  Check out the lookbook and you'll see what I mean.  A hint of metallic on Art Gallery's lovely cotton base cloth
  4. Chambray Boulevard prints, Robert Kaufman.  Southwest Stripe and pin dot, both printed on lightweight chambray, a good match for the Harrison Shirt pattern. 
  5. The Harrison Shirt by Cashmerette. This classic shirt pattern was a year in the making and testing to get the fit just right.   It has double princess seams and is designed for curves, size range 12-28 and cup sizes C/D, E/F and G/H.  Jenny has released superb patterns since she launched her pattern brand a year ago.  The tester photos in her birthday blog post show why her designs have been successful. 
  6. Observer Knit, Mesh with Me, April Rhodes.  Lovely inky irregular graphic print on cotton/lycra jersey.
  7. Euclid, reflect in Natural,  printed Essex linen, Carolyn Friedlander for Robert Kaufman.  Gorgeous designs for clothes, bags and cushions.
  8. Pixie Noel. Tasha Noel's Chrismtas quilting cottons for Riley Blake.  I find that most Christmas fabrics don't have the staying power for me, if they are going to appear each Christmas they need a timeless quality and these do.  These designs are pleasingly nostalgic and the colours are crisp and bright.
  9. From Porto with Love lawn, Fishies in navy, Sarah Watts for Cotton +Steel.  I just love it, the pink line against the navy- perfection.   Another fabric suggestion for the Harrison shirt.

Sunday, 9 October 2016

Sew Over it My Capsule Wardrobe, City Break: Molly Top

Of all the new Indie pattern releases for Autumn, and there's been a lot (check out Fold Line and Diary of a Chain Stitcher for detailed reports), the Sew Over It City Break Capsule Wardrobe really caught my eye.  It's an eBook, comprises of five pattern, plus variations to take you from day to night in any city.  It's good modern basics for everyday living.  The Molly top is simple but different enough to make me want to buy the eBook (£20 for 5 PDF patterns including the variants).  

I found a drapey viscose stripe on eBay from this seller (she has some great stuff).  It's a top which really benefits from drape and lightweight fabrics otherwise the drop sleeve/kimono element to the shoulder would be too bulky.  This fabric was tricky to cut but sewed up fast enough.  the instructions are entirely based on using a sewing machine and using beginner skills e.g. zigzag hem and topstitching rather than twin needle but I used an overlocker and double needle hemming, (see detailed thoughts on double needle hemming on drapey knit here).

I cut a size 8 as my measurements match the Sew Over It sizing for that almost exactly.
Alterations:  I used a longer length for the neckband as my fabric wasn't especially stretchy.  The Colette neckband tutorials are very helpful. My neckband was 90% of neck seam length, plus seam allowances.  The neckband is quite wide- you can see this on some of the many beautiful photos in the eBook - the top edge of the band sometimes stands away from Lisa's collarbone.  In the end, I folded my neckband over on the inside and stitched it down by hand using catch stitch.  

This criss-crossing hand stitch gives the inner neck edge enough elasticity and the neckband sat much flatter.  I'll change the width when I make the next Molly.
I shortened the hem by 1 ½" and the top is still relatively long for me (I'm 5'5").  It depends very much how you like to wear it.  As the fabric is lightweight, it tucks into waistbands very easily.  It wear well as a top or layered up.  The sleeves were a very accurate length.

I am very happy with the result, it's the sort of everyday basic that I can wear almost daily during cooler months.  The top was a tester for me as I also bought Ponte Di Roma to make the dress and after completing the top I went straight on to the dress- blog post coming right up.   The Molly top is a quick make.  I tend to take my time getting a good quality finish with a neat neck and hems but it's the cutting that takes the longest for me, especially with stripes. The eBook is packed full of pictures so you can see each item of clothing in a range of fabrics and situations and the investment that Lisa Comfort and the Sew Over It team have made in this eBook is clearly evident.  I did wonder if I was buying this book because I was drawn into the Parisian setting, persuaded by the many blogger reviews and endorsements and was generally enchanted with Lisa in all her outfits, but actually it's a well thought through idea and Sew Over It have a handy feature in their online fabric shop where you can choose their garments and they suggest suitable fabrics, thus solving the hardest part of online fabric shopping - see the suggestions for the Molly top/dress here.  Part of me wonders if the Capsule wardrobe concept is going to be continued with different eBook mini wardrobes for various occasions?  That would be great!  For these photos I've worn the top with a Deer and Doe Fumeterre skirt.  Both these items will be heavily worn in the next few months, you can't ask for more than that.

Late September Blogger Bundle: Simply Solids

Choosing a selection of fabrics for a project is one of my favourite creative tasks so when Justine from Simply Solids asked me to put eight fabrics together to make the September blogger bundle as part of the Blogger's Choice Stash Club, I jumped at the chance.

Friday, 7 October 2016


The change from summer to autumn is a mixed one for me.  Whilst I'm happy to welcome the amazing low sun light of September, admire the colour changes and enjoy the great fruit and veg, I'm always sad to start wearing socks again and covering up.  There's a few things I've been trying out to ease the transition to less sunlight and shorter days.  This is all totally unrelated to sewing but I thought I'd share.

Cold showers
This sounds contrary.  I love to be warm.  My hands and feet easily get cold so to immerse myself under cold water each morning sounds like the very worst thing to do.  The idea came from a TV programme, The Doctor who Gave Up Drugs.  If you are in the UK, I would recommend watching it in the next week or so before it disappears from iPlayer.  I'm a bit of a pill popper, headaches, migraines, hormonal aches and pains etc.  I'm no stranger to an analgesic so this programme was an interesting watch.  One of the treatments Dr Chris Van Tulleken recommended do a woman suffering from long term depression was cold water swimming and in a round about way, that's what lead me to cold showers.  The cold seems to shock the body, make the blood pump faster and wake you up.  I struggle with darker mornings, even in early autumn.  I have a sunrise clock which definitely helps and the cold shower is helping too but more importantly it is preventing an early morning fuzz that I often wake up with and can quickly become a bad headache.  It's quick: straight from the bed, under the shower, and our shower is basic and above our bath so it's not the most salubrious of surroundings.  I have the water on warm just to ease myself in and then I turn both controls to cold and stand with my back to it.  Many of my migraines are to do with blood vessels constricting in my neck so standing with the cold water hitting my neck and upper back seems to help.  It takes my breath away every time, I often exclaim out loud.  My arms stay by my sides and I rotate slightly from side to side.  It's brief but it is exhilarating.  Before I know it, my towel is wrapped firmly round me, my head is clear and my body is buzzing.

Overnight Oats
I feel like I am very late to the party on this one but I love it even if I'm only a recent convert.  I usually have toast and porridge in the morning. Whilst I like the taste of porridge, it is a bit of a faff to cook, even in a microwave and the washing up a pain (we don't have a dishwasher).  Overnight oats seem to be be firmly associated with Slimming World and lots of recipes emanate from them.  I keep it simple and use a Bonne Maman jam jar.  
  • ⅓ cup of oats
  •  ⅓ cup of milk of your choice (I use sweetened soya)
Swish around to mix and top with frozen raspberries- as many as you fancy.
Add the lid, then leave overnight, not in the fridge as soya milk doesn't go sour like dairy and I don't like it very cold in the morning.
The next day you eat it as it is or add some yogurt (dairy or non) to the top.  There are endless variations on this theme if you Google for recipes.  It's so easy and fast, minimal mess and a great way to eat fruit in the morning, plus if you have to travel early in the morning , it's easy to pack and eat on a train.


3. 'Prep like a Boss'
This came about from watching The Body Coach programme in the summer and it just struck me as a common sense way for us all to eat more veggies.  The premise is simple: buy some plastic storage (I use takeaway style boxes) and regularly put aside time each week to cut and prepare some raw veg snacks.  This is the limit of my prepping and it's often combined with when I'm cutting up veg for an evening meal.  We have carrot sticks in one box, pepper slices in another, radish in a third and keep them topped up during the week.  It means that all three of us consume a lot more veggies at lunch time whether it's packed lunch or at home.  I know the nutritional content is reduced from being cut up the day before but the reality is if these veggies aren't cut and ready to dive into at the time of eating or leaving for work, it's not going to happen.  As a result of eating more raw veggies at lunch time, we're all eating less sugary snacks at lunch times.  I haven't cut sugar out or anything like that - I like cakes, biscuits and chocolate too much but a eating a stack of carrots and peppers keeps me from adding three biscuits to my lunchtime coffee more often than not.

4. Colour
We all do this in some way and the older I get, the more I feel the need to more colour.  A cheap bunch of flowers- the Asters below have been going for two weeks and I think they'll do a few more days.  I never used to buy cut flowers, I saw it as a waste of money but now I find that burst of intense colour is money well spent.  

5. Hygge
And buy Hygge or cosiness I mean snuggle up, you and your family, animals, gentle lighting, quilts and blankets, drinks, food.  Play a game, watch Bake Off, X-Factor,  Strictly or whatever you can watch and enjoy together.  Hygge is taking over the bookshelves as the Danish art of cosiness has gone mainstream and the publishers have got their lifestyle books (mainly photos of Scandinavian houses and how to tie twine around a tea-light) on point of sale.  It's not rocket science and it's what people have always done: huddled together as the lights get low and snuggle up.  My daughter found a cookbook with a wonderful array of biscuits and cakes for such an occasion, Fika & Hygge by Brontë Aurell of Scandi Kitchen.  It's beautifully written and photographed and the recipes are sublime.  Much of this inspiration comes from Sju Sorters Kakor, Swedish Cakes and Cookies which is the Swedish equivalent of the UK Bero cookbook- every house has a copy or multiple copies.  I found a copy of Swedish Cakes and Cookies on eBay for under £3 and it's amazing.  So many recipes and photos.  Maybe the raw veggie eating offsets the sweet snacks from these books ;)

So those are the things I've been enjoying whilst I put my sandals away and get the quilts out.  What are your recommendations for seasonal change?