Spring skirt- twirly whirly

 As promised, a skirt heavy post, a Lonsdale skirt.  Size 6 (USA sizing), this is a perfect fit for me, it sits low waist just bellow my belly button.  I am quite short in the body so I prefer a lower waist so I don't feel cut in half.  I cut the longest length on the size 2 hem as that was the best way to get a maxi length out of 2m of 58" wide fabric.  I cut the waistband lengthways instead of usual with the grain- again squeezing this out of 2m but as this needs to be firm having a bit less stretch was beneficial.  The huge bonus of this pattern is that only the waistband  needs to be tested- get the fit of that right and everything else should follow, no muslin needed.

This fabric is Melody Miller, Ruby Star Spring- light-medium linen blend, no lining.  My brother bought mine from M is for Make for Christmas, you can also find it at Eternal Maker.  It is a Spring weight- I have not been able to wear this on the chillier days this week- just too cold!  You can find the Lonsdale pattern here.

There is a lot of fabric in this skirt and I would really recommend using a wider width- more economical and a lot less wastage than a standard 44" width.  It would also cost a small fortune to make it with a one way print or pile- like corduroy for the same reasons, shame as it would be heaven in Chicopee cord.

Mmm swirly.  I should thank my photographer daughter for the booty shots.

The pockets are a dream, simple construction, great shape, french seams (details of which I found here) and the perfect size.  I am a pear shape, albeit a small one, and I find a bit of detail like these pockets really helps the look of a skirt over rounder areas.  Time for a pocket close up...

 I put a little detail: top stitching down centre seams front and back.

This also doubles as a way of finishing seams.  As all the skirt seams have an element of bias they won't fray easily anyway.  I have highly sensitve skin and sometimes even the threads of a serged seam can rub so I opted for pinking shears for centre seams,

And overlocker/serging for the side seams.  You can also see the hem here, a tiny double fold using this method which is great for a full circle skirt and there is only one line of stitching visible on the front.

I used an invisible zipper combined with the technique in the Colette Ginger skirt pattern which seams the waistband facing into the zipper.  A very wise tutorial on invisible zipper insertion can be found here.

I used a little lightweight iron on cotton interfacing for the zipper and it works like a dream.  The base of invisble zippers always seems a little vulnerable especially in an area that will get sat on and the interfacing adds a bit of strength and helps when inserting the zip for the inevitable unpicking- there is always some.

And as L and I were in the 'garden' (optimistic term for a tiny yard), Lottie had to be there too, she is trying to be good here, trying not to jump up and then she can have a big cuddle!

Spring in the village...

The sun is shining- some of the time, and the days feel just a little longer.  We'll just ignore that I am wearing my wrist warmers and two pairs of socks as I write this.  I have been aching do make some clothes so yesterday I sneaked in long longed for project, a maxi skirt with a little Sewaholic/Melody Miller action.  More of the skirt to follow in a skirt solo indulgent post but meanwhile, for thoughts of dressmaking, here is my monthly trip to Village Haberdashery with a sartorial theme...and if you can't wear it, quilt it.

It may seem counter intutitive but I made my skirt using the Sewaholic Lonsdale Dress pattern- I can explain.   I wanted a maxi length, and I want to make the Lonsdale dress too.  This is an excellent pattern and if you are making the skirt the only part you need to test for fit is the waistband- get that right and the rest will flow.  The pockets are a joy, very easy construction ( more of them to come with the skirt post) and, as with many independent pattern designers, there are resources galore, the best of which is a Lonsdale sew-along with Tasia, who is Sewaholic.

For those who want to skip the dress, here is the Hollyburn skirt- the same skirt but in a different range of lengths and extra waistband detail- and another sew-along right here.

Fabrics for either could include the beautifully understated Carolina Chambray- this would really work with the waistband tab detail.

And for real impact, a bit more Melody Miller, Vinyl in Aspic.  I do have this print in Absinthe and I plan the same skirt in it- it will need lining, this fabric is very floaty.

Banksia is next on the list of clothes to make although I will need to make a trial one to check how it works for my unfeasibly small chesticles.  Again there is a sew-along by Megan Nielson herself which has huge resources, including alternative collars, long sleeves, no sleeves, cheaters placket, a knit version, dress version and more.  These patterns may seem more expensive than a Simplicity or a New look but independednt designers have much higher production costs to meet and remember the best deisgners give so much more in terms of variations and help.  I am hoping I can make this top many many times.

Maybe I could make it in this... Sinister Swarm voile in Flour

Or Cell Structure in Americana. 

For a more fitted look, there is a cute little Sewaholic Alma pattern, this top has a side zip although I have seen versions on line that skip this step.

Art gallery cottons are a finer silkier quilting cotton weight, more like poplin and wonderful for dresses and tops.  Sarah Watson's new Luxe in Bloom range has many easily wearable prints that won't make you look like you are wearing a quilt, I think this all over squiggle would look so pretty in the Alma.

If you fear the zipper, the School House Tunic by Sew Liberated is ideal.  A forgiving and flattering style, a great beginner pattern ( there is a free dress adaptation of this at Sew Liberated) and a helpful sew along style tutorial here.

I have made similar tunics to this and they work beautifully in voile, what better than a little AMH Field Study: Co-ordinates in Midnight. 

Another Sarah Watson print for Art Gallery, Cascade in Agate, and a way to sneak in a bit of citrus that won't make you look like a 80s throw back.

I saw this Green Bee Amelia dress pattern in Quilt Market photos months back and it caught my eye then.  It is a simple bias cut crying out for curves to fill it.  The only trickiness is a back zipper.

To make the most of the bias cut I chose a couple of Tula Pink Salt Water prints: tortoise shell in aqua...

and Sea stripes in aqua.

Feel that sun,  or if necessary imagine it, then put on a coat and dream of spring.

Geese

I love the look of Flying Geese but I hate the lengthy process and the wastage so I have generally avoided them.  I made a big long goose chain for Muriel in a Bee once and  I shied away from them despite my love of Denyse Schmidt's glorious Flock of Triangles quilt.  And then I had a break through whilst having a look at various Sizzix projects on their website.  I found the Swarm Quilt project entrirely based on 2 sizes of geese- the dies did all the work.  I had the half square triangle die already so I set to work getting the remaining triangle die that makes the centre. 

And you can see how easy it is, dog ears trimmed, accurate, minimal wastage- this is where cutting dies really excel- and this one will get used for quarter square triangles too.

 Easy to chain piece....

 Accurate...

and fast!

Neat...

And ready for a border- sorry I can't show more- bound by silence...

Super size geese? Oh yeah!  This one needed this die and this die for a super size block.

For buying online: I have used Crafty Devils Paper Craft and Country View, both competitively prices and quick to send.  

Stashing

 Eternal Maker is so packed full of fabrics that sometimes I can completely miss a designer or fabric that I have never seen before.  I have had my eye on that Kinkame bus print for a while- sorry I bought the last piece as a bolt end and it is a treat.  The Kinkame cute spotty animal print is still in stock and at a ridculously cheap sale price, £3.74 for 1/2 metre.  Naito Shoji is a new name to me.  Japanese fabric with the most wonderful colour palette and mix of florals, cuteness and dotty patterns.  The flower stripe and bubble design have other colourways too.

Topping up on a few basics.  Timeless Treasure sketch is incredibly useful when you want a block of colour but not a solid.  Lipstick and Citron are two I have used a lot of recently.  They work together well and citron is a great mixer for Chicopee.  Polka dots are forever useful. The orange on cream dots can be found here and the lovely Lecien big spot are here

If you are feeling random, go check the bolt end section out, there are some bargains to be had and such a range from Linen/cotton Echino to nylon to silk.   And for you tech types out there, I wrote on the pics using Notability and a cheapo stylus on an iPad, a very handy app indeedy.

Friends

Life has been a little hard since mid December.  Time helps but there is some difficult stuff to deal with, things that won't go away however hard I wish they would and crap that is unavoidable.  A bit more light helps, sunny days too.  And there have been surprises and messages from friends which have been wonderful.  A package came from Nova this week, completely unexpected.  Treasure inside...

It was designed for the kitchen although instead it went to live in my sewing room, under my little iron.

I look at it constantly which is what it deserves.  And it came with more thoughtful little fancies.

And with this- I think I swooned as I opened this out, colours, design, vintage, perfection.  Hugs and thankyous to Nova xxx

And Amy sent me her beautiful Rose Dream pillow from Amy.  Again, totally unexpected. Sizzix cut with their new die and immaculately made.   It is snuggling up to Penny's scallop pillow, it lives happily on our sofa and waits for me and Lottie to squish against it.

The little details that friend's include are what makes a handmade gift extra special- A for Amy in the corner...

I love the light/earthy colour palette and the pretty floral binding and backing which echoes all the prints.

Amy has been a huge support recently, emails can make distance seem a little less.  Thankyou Amy xxx  My happy corner with pics and gifts from friends, family, pretties and memories.

I have a few friends going through the crappiest of times, I send them all my love and more.   Having to be a grown up when you don't feel like you are;  feeling that you aren't ready for what has happened; facing decisions you never thought would be yours to make.  Life can be hard, time and the love of friends helps you through.  No comments on this one x

Tea Towels- art work for the kitchen

I am welcoming a new sponsor, Al from All Tea Towels.  You know I am partial to a tea towel, I love the designs and colours and when I am on a car boot sale trawl a good find is unused vintage tea towels.  I find them a great source of affordable design, maybe its because the size of a tea towel makes it the ideal canvas for artists to get their work out there commercially.  Here is the real bonus, first class postage in UK is free!  Postage to Europe £1, postage world wide £2. 

Here are some of my favs...firstly, retro inspired text naturally!

Lots of tea related ideas...

Transport and British...great present for friends from afar

Quirk- British Museum meets Manga

Bargain kitsch in the sale section- this one is only £3.95

and I can't believe this is under £5

There are also hand crafted woven special treats- see the Ekelund Swedish woven beauties for some beautiful designs

Prices range from sale section £3.95 to around £17.95 for the Swedish woven (rather than printed) beauties.  Most are under £10 and with free postage that has to be a bargain.  Al has added an extra offer, a free coaster of your choice with every order, this is my choice.

A bargain, supporting a British independent business and countless designers and a bit of beauty in the kitchen. Frame them like a picture or just use them as I do- stains and all, they are made for washing using and enjoying.  All Tea Towels facebook page is here.   Go searching under the left side menu bars on the web site, some of these beauties are a little hidden away-the sale section is on the top menu bar- but seek and you will find.