Showing posts with label Sew House seven. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sew House seven. Show all posts

Sunday, 17 March 2019

Simplicity 8529 Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater in Double Layer Jersey

It's been extra windy in the UK recently so it seemed like making a cosy sweater was a good idea and I managed to get pattern/fabric and some small windows of time in the week before storm Gareth kicked in.  This is view A of Simplicity 8529.  This is the Simplicity licenced version of Peggy's Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater; slightly different from the original - the shoulder line is more dropped on this version and the neck construction uses another method.  It's a quick and satisfying make, I wore this all through last week!



I made size S as that was closest to my 33" chest measurement, my only alteration was turning up the front and back hems by an extra 1/4".  The fabric is a double layer Italian cotton jersey which I bought from this eBay seller who offers a sample service.  I found the samples incredibly helpful when choosing and successful for the seller too as I bought another knit fabric that I hadn't noticed as well as this one.  This has two layers of 100% cotton jersey held together by stitches like double gauze.  It's soft with moderate stretch and good structure and suited this style.  It was also easy to cut and sew as it lies relatively flat. 


I decided to sew this on my Bernina 830 record using a Bernina walking foot, 80 ballpoint needle and Gutermann Sew-All thread.  My overlocker doesn't cope that well with bulk and the double layer does make for some thick seam intersections so I sewed some trial seams and ended up using a small zig-zag for the seams (1.5 width x 1.5 length), and a bigger one (4 w x 2.5 lengthto encase the edges, trimming after I sewed.   it worked really well with neat stable seams and it does show how you don't need an overlocker/serger to sew knits!  I used a seam stabiliser tape on the back shoulders up to the neck curve and a double-needle for the slit hems, see here for tips, although a long straight stitch could also be used as the hems aren't put under strain. 

The funnel neck is warm without being restrictive and the clever facing method creates a neat finish.  This pattern was a great project to fit into small spaces of time: once it's cut out it comes together very quickly and the end result is satisfying.  I might try the shorter banded version with my remaining jersey fabric... 


Joni is taking up most of my free moments and I need to be very vigilant about not letting her into my sewing room unless she's sleeping to prevent her eating fabric scraps.  I've been keeping her busy with lots of socialisation opportunities and learning new tricks.  Puppy life is rather hands-on but she's a fast learner and we've been getting out and about on the lead. 

Sunday, 30 July 2017

Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs in Linen : Pattern Review

I've always loved dungarees and aprons; 70s styling, skirts that wrap, dresses that tie, a bib front and now is a good time for those sewing those styles. There's such a range of patterns available and I was finally nudged into action by Sarah of Pretty Fabrics and Trims who mentioned the Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven in an email exchange.  I had two metres of gorgeous linen from a destash purchase, I had the pattern printed in copy shop format, I was good to go!





I chose version 1, a more fitted trouser with an invisible side zip and I opted for a straight across bib. The pattern also includes a looser trouser with pull on waist and a curved bib so you can mix and match the style elements. Size wise, following the body measurement guidelines, I cut out a size 2 bib; widening to 4 at the waist, and a size 4 lower half.  I could manage to squeeze a full length pair out of 2 metres but I wanted the summery feel of the cropped style. The length of these uses the pattern hem line; I am 5' 5"/ 164cm in height.  It's a well written pattern and fitting is minimal as the apron ties bring the waist in and out. 



The only change I made was adding a layer of Liberty lawn to interline the pockets as they are sewn on to the front and I thought the linen would bag out in use.  I also added a light fusible interfacing strip into the zip side seams.  Otherwise, everything was as written in the pattern.A future change I would make would be to stay stitch the underarm section of the bib and maybe interface it with a very lightweight fusible as it did go a little out of shape at the edges.


The fit is good, especially in the trouser section. Dungarees are not the most flattering look on the derrière but I think these have the balance about right and you could easily make a few adjustments to make them more fitted, or choose the looser trouser pattern and have a baggy look.  The size 2 bib is very slightly short and in hindsight, size 4 throughout would've been fine but the difference is minimal.  They are a satisfying make and great to wear on a hot day out, the leg has just the right width to it, they look wide leg and not like clown pants!  I have the Tea Dress in my dressmaking queue, along with some beautiful linen from USA so I'm tempted to start that next.  


Other dungaree pattern suggestions:

SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSave