Darling Ranges Catch Up

 It feels like an age since I made these.  It was in fact early mid September and there was still a little sun around and enough warmth to bare a little skin.  Megan Nielsen put a shout out for pattern testers some time ago and I got an email to test the tweaked PDF version of Darling Ranges Dress.  It had been modified and a bonus tunic/shirt pattern was added.  That is what I started with.

I was pretty sceptical at the tunic pattern in theory as it had no darts so I was expecting this to become a Pyjama top but I was very pleasantly surprised with the simplicity of this and how effective it was.  I made a size S, I had already done a small bust adjustment on the bodice and the darts are not sewn for this shirt, extended the sleeves and added an elastic cuff using method 2 from Megan's tutorials.

The fabric came from Al, not quite sure what it is- a little viscose or rayon is in there and it dries really fast- what it does have is great drape for a light weight fabric and that's essential for this top- no quilting cotton for this one, it needs drape.

Then on to the Darling Ranges dress.  Size S with added back darts.  I took it in a little at the waist- about ½" on each side and I also added the waist ties.  It is an easy, relaxed fit. 

I placed all the gathers to the centre front and back so the hips are smooth as I know this suits me.

The fabric was Flumes by Sarah Watson for Art Gallery, the Luxe in Bloom range.   Art Gallery cottons are a lovely weight for dresses and have a silkier feel than most quilting cottons.  I used 2.5 metres to make this dress. There was a great little circle pattern to fussy cut for the fabric covered buttons.  They are also so easy to make- tute here.

And my little helper was on hand to photo bomb the pics.

Megan took all the pattern testers' comments on board and tweaked the pattern further and it was a pleasure to test for her.  You can find all her PDF patterns here.

Me Made May 13 Weeks 2 and 3:Knits

I have been crazily dressmaking inspired by Me Made May 13.  Moderation is a hard thing for me; it's all or nothing and although I constantly try to amend this it doesn't seem to happen.  Prepare yourself for a rather picture heavy post. I have been making a lot of tops because tops and skirts is what I wear when I am not at work. (work is jeans and work t shirt so I never wear jeans out of work).  This post is knit tops and another post will follow with other clothing .

This T shirt is a free download from Kristin of Skirt as top.  It comes in one size which is small (around 10-12 UK sizing.  I made it a little narrower on the sides and added a self drafted pocket.  I also shortened the pattern all round by 1" as I am quite short in the body.

It makes a lovely T, lightly fitted at the top and loose at the hip with a dip hem lower at the back.   As the sleeves are part of the front/back it is very economical on fabric which made it perfect for the Nani Iro knit (this print is gone at Eternal Maker and Village Haberdashery) which is only 80cm wide.  This Nani Iro knit is double layered, a bit like double layer gauze, and is very soft.  Eternal Maker sell the same Nani Iro knit in a different print/colours here. 

I will definitely make more of these! Kristin has included all the making instructions on her blog and it can be made on a standard sewing machine.

I mentioned Meg McElwee's Craftsty knit class before- it is a great class.  Cotton jersey is the easiest knit to work with, especially if it is 100% cotton as the stretch is easy to control and the fabric behaves itself when pressing/cutting etc.  Viscose jersey (like the floral jersey top in this post) is much harder and slips and slides more.  This is organic cotton jersey from Eternal Maker and I managed to squeeze a long sleeved and a short sleeved T out of 1 1/2 metres.

This is size XS and fits really well. I gained a lot of confidence working with knits from Meg's class and it comes with a stack of knit patterns which made it an economical buy.  I wear long sleeve knit tops like this all through the year so this is a great basic.

This is the shorter T that I squeezed out of the left over jersey.

Megan Nielsen Briar pattern, in XS.  I went for the short style and cut straight across the front and left the back as the pattern with the dip hem.  Fit is just right, no alternations.  I underestimated this pattern.  I thought it was going to look like an 80s crop top but actually this ends up at the perfect length for the large collection of A line higher waisted skirts that I am currently creating.  Again, I see this as a wardrobe staple.  The hardest areas for me to fit are armscye/armhole and bust.  With knits, bust is not really something I have to think about (relief) and the shoulder line/armhole is perfect for me on this.

Having seen all the different versions all over different blogs I know it will work with lots of variation lengthened/long sleeves etc.  Maybe even as a cardigan or a woven?   I think it's worth a try- I love this one a lot!  I can't wait to make a version in the new Elk Grove knits! And the best thing about making it in this length is that it hardly takes any fabric.

I have found all the dress making highly therapeutic.  You have to look at yourself objectively when you make your own clothes, accept the lumps, (lack of lady lumps in my case) bumps, short bits, long bits and work with and around them.  I have had issues in the past, eating disorders in my very stressful early 20s, thankfully long behind me but body image is a toughie.  Making my own clothes helps.  They have to fit so sizing goes out of the window- one style like a dress might involve 3 different sizes at the bust waist and hip.  You also have to be prepared for a little failure- getting it right first time is the exception and sometimes you need to accept that you get it wrong.  Wrong fabric, wrong style, being swayed by what looks good on others but will never work on you- I've done them all and I still do it despite over 25 years of making my own clothes.  

My most recent failure was a Tova- not the style but the fabric choice.  Too busy, too small a print, too much going on.  At the moment it hangs in the sewing room so I can ponder it, and as a little reminder that not every fabric you love will make great clothing!  Reuse, recycle, I am guessing this will chop and end up in a quilt.