This is Fawn Silhouette on Forest Green Cotton Jersey Blend. It is mid weight- it makes me think of T shirts- and has 25% stretch. That means that 10" of fabric will stretch to 12.5" maximum which is quite low so it has stability and the edges of the fabric don't roll when you cut it. It is soft and it drapes nicely. Mark warned me that I would need to wash it first as it feels a little stiff straight off the bold which it did when I first unwrapped it but it softened just as he said and knits should always be pre washed and dried flat to allow for shrinkage. It seemed a good fit for this style, it matched the stretch gauge on the reverse of the pattern. If you are new to knits, this blend is a good fabric to start with: it's easy to handle for cutting and sewing and there are lots of prints to choose from. It's a jersey fabric that lies flat and is suitable for a style that doesn't need a lot of stretch so something like a Megan Nielsen Briar top or a Tilly & the Buttons Coco top/dress is good. It doesn't work for close fitting styles like leggings or tight tops as it has no lycra so the recovery is mechanical rather than specific stretchy fibres.
It's a simple pattern. The neckline is the same front and back and is horizontal- no curve. The front and back are slightly angled at the shoulder where the two cross over. You have to go with the bra-straps-on-view look as it's unavoidable with this style!
With vintage patterns, the methodology is often different to what we would do now. I would usually opt for a double needle hem finish but instead, this pattern called for two lines of straight stitching. I experimented- see below and I opened for the 0.7 zig zag as I tend to pull tops as I take them off and on! In hindsight I think the double needle hem would've been better with some knit stabiliser tape to stop the tunnelling or bunching up of the fabric between the stitching rows.
I added the sleeves flat but they were eased stitched and I tried to avoid stretching the fabric as I sewed them in on the overlocker. So I avoided distorting the fabric but it dos look a little puckered around the armhole. I used a moderate heat on the iron for pressing because of the polyester content and it worked fine.
The degree of stretch in knit fabric is such an important factor when matching up fabric to pattern. Girl Charlee is one of the few online shops in the UK that includes the percentage stretch for each fabric. Other shops write some beautiful descriptions and include fibre content, width and all the other info but it would be so helpful to have this extra information.
I'm adding this into my #vintagepledge as an extra- I still have a Betsey Johnson jacket to make which is waiting for me to buy a walking foot for my Bernina! See my other makes for #vintagepledge here and here.