Datura Blouse

Another Deer and Doe pattern and another success.  Datura is a simple looking sleeveless blouse but it is curiously deceptive.   It is described as Advanced and now I can see why.  The construction is very clever- especially the shoulder straps and the bodice lining and as with all Deer and Doe patterns, instructions are brief.  They also don't provide any measurements of finished garments although they do details the size the model wears on the website which is some help.

The top bodice is double layered to hide all seams and encase the collar.  The Datura uses more fabric than you would think but each section is small so it is ideal for add lengths that co-ordinate together.  I had some Oakshott Elements left from a baby quilt project that I did for the book (can't wait for when we can show you some pics!)  This shade is called Spirit- Castor.  It is a beautifully lightweight fabric and has great stability so it paired well with the voile lining- an Amy Butler print.  Oakshott cottons are rarely mentioned for clothing but it lends itself beautifully to shirts and tops.  The check fabric- guessing a viscose mix, is a remnant from Abakhan.   If you ever have the chance to visit an Abakhan's store allow a lot of time and a very large bag.  Their remnant lengths are amazing- I always find treasure and  bargains.

This was fitting part way through.  The top is inside out so I can adjust the darts as they were too low.   This is the stage where I have to grit my teeth and get the fit right. The shoulders are fine but the sides needed to go down a size and the bust was baggy.  After alterations, I ended up with:

• Sz 36 (UK size 8) on the top bodice
• Sz34 (UK size 6) on the sides and length
• Upward curve on the front created using the front pattern piece lower curve but the other way round!
• Bust darts halved in width and moved upwards- (you can see the orginal position left and the higher position right.  In the finished top this could've done with being a touch higher but I can live with it!

The sizing comes up pretty big on this top- I am never a size 6 on the sides in anything else, so worth bearing in mind if you make a Datura of your own.

The full length was a bit tunic tent on me- in a thinner fabric it could've been tucked in but I went for an upwardly curved hem to wear with high waisted skirts- I have a lot of these.

The back has buttons but no buttonholes, nice detail as I really do not like making buttonholes.

 I was a bit reluctant to show my face today, its been a long day and it was cool in the garden this evening but, here you go...The skirt is a local dress agency find, a Laura Ashley skirt from a time a few years ago when they revisited their archives and remade some of their old 70s styles.  It is a favourite, floaty and comfortable to wear.

 One of the biggest pleasures for me in dress making is making the inside just as pretty as the outside.  I have sensitive skin, the slightest tickle brings a rash so having voile as the bodice lining is such a pleasure.  The hem is finished with binding added like a facing.  This was tricky with the voile and if the front panel was voile too I would have done a narrow double hem instead but it is a good finish on this heavier fabric and hangs nicely.

It is a pattern I will definitely make again especially now I have the fitting sorted.  I might add a cap sleeve next time and see how that goes.  But in the meantime Lottie is waiting for her walk- catch you soon xxx