PJ Pants Class at Fat Quarterly Retreat

Fat Quarterly Retreat 2013 is only weeks away and I am busy prepping.  This post is for those coming to my PJ pants class but it could be of interest to others so read on!  Any questions will be answered in the comments instead of by email so the info is with the post.  The PJ pants class uses a Simplicity pattern 9871 which you can buy or download for free and tape together.   You can find lots of handy info at the free download especially Anatomy of a Pattern and Fabric Selection

I am going to go through some prep work that you are welcome to do before class or as part of the class.   If you wish to trace off the pattern before you come you will need to have an idea about size.  The differences between sizes on this pattern are generous.  I made an XS-too small, and an S- too big, so I ended up tracing between sizes.  You can even trace the waist/hip as one size and the leg as another- I did this with the pattern I traced for Laura Jane's PJs.  Her pattern is the white version on the right,  the waist/hip is between sizes M and L and the leg is M.

If you are working out sizes, a pair of your own well fitting PJs is a great help.  The pattern has some markings that are a great guide when working out size.  There is a line for where the crotch will be once the PJs are made and also the waistline, (I'll warn you there will be a lot of talk of crotches).  You can position the crotch of your own PJs and see how the depth of the waist/hip area compares.  I used this for Laura's and you can see where the waist line is on her Marks and Spencers strawberry pjs and the waistline on the pattern so I dropped the waistline by 1 1/2"when I traced the pattern. 

For the leg length, use the inside leg of your own PJs and remember to allow for the hem finish you want. There is more detail on this on the print out mentioned below.  It is always better to make the PJs too long and have room to play with but if you do end up making them too short a hem cuff can be added or they could be 3/4 length and you can pretend that is what you wanted all along!

You have the option of making the PJ pants exactly as they are on the pattern or with some extra details- straightening the leg, lowering the waistline, hem cuff, elastic/front tie and I have written a document which explains some of the size, cutting out and making details, especially for those extra details.  If you are coming to class, please print this out, read through and bring with you.  I will bring copies with me too.  I will be going through the basics of tracing, cutting out and making plus Trudi will be on hand too to help out.  You will be needing to try on as you make so if you were thinking of wearing an all-in-one jump suit to retreat, you may want to think again.

Some Style Options:

Narrow tie  1/2" + back elastic

Wide tie 1" + back elastic

Standard Hem

Contrast Hem Cuff- 3" finished

Contrast Hem Cuff  with Turn-up

And others- shorts, 3/4 length, bound hem, lace trimmed hem- any ideas let me know in the comments and I'll see what I can do.  

The details below are in the Fat Quarterly info that has been sent out to class members but there is no harm in repeating.  With fabric quantities- better too much than too little and that includes the requirements for contrast trims so I have upped these quantities.

You Will Need:

Fabric: See pattern for quantity, they are generous estimates. Cotton fabric is recommended and woven rather than stretch.  I made a voile version and a flannel version.  Avoid directional patterns or patterns that need matching (including plaid/check/stripes) as they require extra fabric. A large double bed sheet might be sufficient- depends on your size. 

To make the contrast hem cuffs: at least long 1/4 yard contrast fabric, 1/2 yard is better!

Waist ties: If contrasting you will need at least long 1/4 yard contrast fabric (not flannel for waist ties, too bulky.

If tracing: Swedish paper/lightweight copy paper to be taped together/dots & cross paper, tape

Paper Scissors

Fabric Scissors

1 1/4 yard of 1/2” wide elastic- or wider elastic.  I have tried 1/2" and 1"

Tape measure

Good quality polyester thread for strength- not cotton.  I suggest Gutermann or Coates.

Scrap fusible woven interfacing 2” x 4”

If using lawn or voile- bring 70 size sewing needle, Microtex is good for lawn and voile

Bodkin/safety pin for threading elastic throughcasing

Usual sewing- scissors, seam ripper, pins

Quilt ruler

Pencil or fabric marker

Buttonhole foot if bringing your own machine

Optional: Pinking shears if you are bringing your own machine and have no zig-zag to finish seams

Optional: A pair of PJ pants that already fit you well

I will provide:

Fray check for buttonholes

Off cuts of interfacing

Love and understanding!