Ginger with Pockets

A skirt to compensate for last week's disaster, another Ginger,  pattern by Colette, pockets by me.

I liked these pockets but didn't want binding,  just a simple pocket, lining, joined at the side and bottom, top stitch details and stitched in to the skirt side seams and waistband.  I drafted a shape using the skirt pattern as guidance and made a tester before making the real thing.

The fabric is the uber soft wale corduroy  by Amy Butler,  Soul Blossoms 'English Garden' in Bluestone I bought mine from Julia at Gone to Earth.  Highly strokeable.

I lined it with a cheap thin cotton, corduroy has a tendency to bag out, espcially around the booty and if I am going to all the bother of making a skirt for myself I like the extra touches like lining and natural fibres and pockets big enough to have purpose.

I made this a size up from my last- size 6 in the Colette sizing.  I don't like tightness or restriction, and this is perfect, no gaping but just a little wriggle room.  I sewed the waistband facing just a little further away, about 1/8" from the invisible zipper stitching line- if you have made Ginger you will know what I mean-this zip slides up beautifully.  I do love the shaping on this pattern, the pattern pieces slope in at the back to allow for the small of the back, and also a little at the front to allow for a little belly!  It is A line with added A, very clever simple design.

  Definitely plan to make this one again.  And as you can see from the pics, taken today, no snow here but feverish media coverage of snow elsewhere in the UK.  It was a touch nippy standing outside in the road without a coat and Damian trying to take pictures of my behind without me seeing- cheeky monkey

Ginger

My wardrobe is looking a little sad, things that don't fit, I don't like or just tend to hide me when I wear them so I have been making skirts.  The Cynthia Rowley skirt is great to wear- it's all about the pockets and the fullness.  Next I fancied a Colette pattern. 

I have been intrigued by Colette.  I love the details and the styling.  The new book has been requested for Christmas.  The patterns are more expensive than a Simplcity or McCalls- although they aren't cheap in the UK.  But you do get a bit more for your buck.  The pattern instructions are in booklet form with stitches down the spine- nice touch- and the pattern pieces at the back.

The pages are thick with very clear diagrams and online links for tricky bits- very good invisible zip tutorial here.   The pages are a pleasure to touch- unlike the usual oversized folded crappy instruction leaflet.   The pattern pieces are still on the tissue stuff that everyone hates but I traced them onto thicker paper so I can reuse them.  Ultimately this pattern excels on fit.

It looks like a simple A line but there are a few shaping details that made it hug all round.  The back and front seams are not straight, they tilt inwards at all the right places to give a snug, smooth fit.

I used some light stretch denim, cheapo stuff from local fabric shop and a bit of Liberty bias binding for the flat waist binding trim- instructions for adding this are on the Colette site.

I adapted the waist band shaping to a smoother curve than the pattern.  I like the way it looks but when I am sitting I realise my trunk is not that long and it cuts into my diaphragm- next time a shorter waistband.  I lengthened the skirt considerably too- I am very cautious on length.  Looking at that pic, it would look better shorter and perhaps if I'd spent a bit more time ironing it too.   You can't see the hem- blind hem on my new machine, worked like a dream.  That is the first time I have had a machine where the blind hem was successful!

I won't pretend the sipper was plain sailing.  I put it perfectly first time on one side and then the wrong way round on the other side.  It needed another go and then there is a tendency to stick around the facing and binding area.   A bit of gentle stretching (read pulling and close to tears)  some silicon on the zipper and some hand stitching to get the facing out of the way on the inside- now it works.  It is a beautiful pattern for a beginner.  I made a test waist band before I embarked on the whole thing to check the sizing.  I always get in a state about sizing... even after making my test band I can't trust myself or the tape measure, first too big, then too small.  This is a fit with no room for cake, even with 

the stretch.

I would've liked pockets but this fabric isn't up to it.  It is probably a work skirt rather than an everyday sling it on and let the dog and kitties sleep on me,  but a very pleasurable project non the less.  

And now I return to Christmas sewing...

Whole Lotta Love for My New Skirt

Finished, skirt Simplicity 2215 in Lotta  Jansdotter 'Echo' Dusted Plum Florine and I am very happy with it.  I made the waist band wider but other wise unchanged from my test run version.

Nice details include irregular pleats- the sizes and directions vary, capacious pockets,

plus a contrast lining of mustard yellow- the egg dot print from Hoodies Morning Call range for Blank Quilting- I would love some more of this, if you know where I can find it please let me know!

I made the finished waistband an inch taller

and a pleated and frayed fringe edge on the hem.  It makes me feel like a lady, I have already ordered another print in navy so maybe I repeat this one, or maybe pastures new.  If you like the hem I have written a tutorial telling you how to do it here.

Busy week this week, Candy Cane paper pieced pattern will go on sale Thursday and there is a lot going on at home too, award evening thing with Lula, Ikea delivery, more kitchen fitting and I had 10 head injections yesterday- some weeks seem to pack a month's activity into 7 days.

(**edited to add**)

 I have these injections every 6 months to help prevent migraine- I am fine, i don't mind needles at all, it is just a lot in one go and it makes head/neck sore for a while, it is worth it.

And if you fancy the skirt pattern, it is relatively easy but there is a side concealed zipper which combines with the pocket- hmm, quite tricky that bit, otherwise OK.  If you haven't made a skirt before, I fully recommend Anna's recent sew-a-long for a similar style which is a great first skirt project.

Skirt- test run

You must've seen these in the blogisphere- I've seen them everywhere, Lotta Jansdotter's new fabric line for Windham Echo.  As soon as they came in at M is for Make, I knew I wanted some for a skirt and couldn't resist the fat 16th bundle, 12 little pieces from the whole line.  

This is the skirt, Cynthia Rowley for Simplicity 2215.  I plan to make the dress too, but the skirt will do for now.  Before I cut into the good stuff, I am being very well behaved and making a toile, a test run to check size and shape.  I tend to pick patterns based on how I would like to look, not on what always suits me- there is a high degree of wishing I was the sort of women who dressed like this or that, rather than what I really wear. 

If you are unsure about doing a pattern, I thoroughly recommend a look at Pattern Review.  I look at this site before I buy any pattern because you can always find someone else who has made it and read the highs and the lows.  It helps with sizing and also highlights potentially tricky areas- on this skirt there are pockets and a concealed zip both in the same side seam.  It helps to know such things in advance!  I made this on my new machine- named Florence as in Florence and the Machine.  The name followed a very funny conversation with Melinda who names not only her sewing machines, but her kitchen appliances too- I'll say no more, maybe she will elaborate but she cracked me up!  

I was very unsure when I was making this.  I don't usually wear my skirts so high.  I tend to wear very long low waisted skirts but I am a bit tired of hiding everything all the time so I fancied a change.  I also hate very close fitting clothes so I am making this with a bit of ease as it is quite a fitted shape

Apologies for the blurry photos, it was poor light and I was wobbling around.  I am happy with the test skirt, especially the pockets.

I am quite slim but also curvy and fullness around the waist can make me look rather plump but I think the shape works in this case.  It is hard to look at yourself objectively but this looks better than I thought it was and I threw it together very quickly.  You can just see the gap underneath my pocketed hand- hiding a big expanse of hip where the zipper would go- very attractive!

The hem is a lovely detail and when I make this on the real skirt I will show the process as it is not hard and adds a bit of weight and texture.  The very bottom of the hem is a raw edge and the lower crossweave threads will be removed to make a fringe.

Fancy making a skirt but want the help of others along the way?  Check out Anna's  Sew-a-long.  Fancy finding out more about dress making and using beautiful and feminine patterns, visit Florence's blog and read her review of the new Colette Sewing Handbook.  Tomorrow she interviews Sarai Mitnick, the founder of Colette.  Happy reading and happy sewing x