Jerseyprene Raw Edge Coat: The Maker's Atelier

 I recently reviewed Frances Tobin's Essential Collection book which is packed full of classic wardrobe staples with a modern twist and I've been itching to make something from it so I temporarily abandoned my #2017makenine as it's been progressing nicely and chose the raw edge coat as I though it would be a handy garment for Spring weather. Very different to what I usually sew and a quick project too.  Here it is on its first outing in a local park last weekend.

As with all the patterns in the book, there are fabric different options sewn up and photographed in The Essential Collection.  This is not my usual shape so I wanted to try it out with something relatively inexpensive so I chose a cotton feel neoprene which is a soft, double sided fabric with contrasting greys on each side and a spongy, springy feel.  It's comparable to a thick scuba or a very soft neoprene. The Textile Centre has a few options for this- colours, textures- and the quality is v good at a low price. I haven't sewn with fabric like this before- here are a few steps I took:

• Cut out flat, chalk outline around pattern on reverse of fabric
• Used rotary cutter to cut out as clean edges are important- raw edge seams are a feature and the edges of the coat are unhemmed
• Sz 90 Ballpoint or Universal needle.  I used both and both worked
• Walking foot.  This is bulky fabric, I used my Janome and the Acufeed foot.
• Low foot pressure.  I used 3 out of 7 (7 is highest pressure)
• Long stitch length. 2.7mm for seams, 2.8 for top stitching
• No pressing needed
• Consider the reverse of your fabric as with this style option there reverse side is a feature e.g. the lapel, and will show.  There are instructions for a lined coat with a more conventional double layer lapel
• Many edges are raw. I changed this for the top of the pocket as I thought this might get a little bashed about so I used a jersey binding using this viscose binding from Eternal Maker.  although the light grey is sold out I think. 

Pattern details:

• The coat sizing is one of the mixed-size patterns in the book that span two sizes. I used size 1/2 which is size 32-34" bust.  I am 33" Bust, 27 1/2" waist, 36" hip.
• The pattern pieces are for a jacket and there are easy instructions to lengthen those pieces for a coat 

Alterations

These are relatively easy to do if you are sizing down as the construction is simple.  As the seams are visible on the outside and are trimmed down to 3mm, plus seams are hard to unpick as the stitches sink into fabric increasing size would be tricky.   I found the sizing generous and although it is an oversized garment. These are the reductions I made:  

•  From the side seams, underarms to waist- tapered in by ¾" at waist
• From hips to hem- tapered in bt 1 ½" at the hem
• Armscye- this seam is on the inside.  removed ⅜" around the seam tapering to join original seam line at underarm.
• Sleeve- it's a two part sleeve and I found it especially big at the back so I reduced that seam by ⅜" tapering into the armscye
• The sleeves were long so I folded them back- the contrast of the reverse fabric ties in with the lapels 

Frances recommends using sewn-in large press studs as fasteners on neoprene rather than buttons/buttonholes as they tend to stretch out of shape.  They need careful sewing as the stitching is visible and the press studs are a feature as well as a practicality.  I follow @sewbrooke on Instagram  She is a freelance seamstress and costumer so a highly skilled maker and she's chatty and helpful too.  One of her top tips on a post a while ago was a clever way to secure your thread on fabrics when you want to avoid a knot:

  Use a double thread but instead of threading the loop through the eye, instead thread the ends through the needle eye and have the loop at the end of the doubled thread - do not tie a knot! Push your needle through the fabric to create a small stitch but do not pull the end loop through; instead pass the needle through the loop and gently pull.  Your thread is now attached.  You can then sew your snap or button. Once sewn on you will cut the thread so you cannot repeat the same technique with the same thread so I used 18" length of thread to sew on each part of the snap.

 A nice effect of this fabric was the dimples the fabric makes under the tension of the hand stitches. 

It's a soft and easy wear.  I did feel a little self conscious going out in what seems like quite a grown up style but it's so comfortable and easy to wear I've found myself putting it on for all my dog walking this week as the weather is dry but a little breezy.  Hmm, sounds like a great transitional piece for Spring as the fashionistas say.  I did add a new wooden badge pin,  Maker from Grace's beautiful Beyond Measure shop.  I've been destashing lots of things recently so this was a little treat.  Made by Arrow Mountain, See the full range of motifs here.   I've more planned from France's book...

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The Maker's Atelier Book: The Essential Collection by Frances Tobin, Review

Frances Tobin from The Maker's Atelier has written a dressmaking book and she kindly offered me a copy to review.  I'd seen the sneaky glimpses inside on her Instagram feed, I like how she's developed her luxe, sportswear style within the busy indie sewing pattern market and so I jumped at the chance. 

I like to approach dressmaking books primarily as a sewist so first and foremost, I want to know the practicalities of a pattern based book.  Is it easy to use?  What patterns are inside?  What sort of detail does the author go into?

Format
The book has a soft cover and is held together with a firm folding magnetic strip which also acts as the book spine: the whole thing opens out like a folder with the book on one side and the patternson the other.  The pattern section  is about ½" in depth and the string-tied closure/card envelope matches Frances' Maker's Atelier dressmaking patterns.  The best thing is that both sides, the text and the patterns, open out.  For the book section in particular, I love this feature, any page will lie completely flat, I wish every sewing book did this!

When I first saw this feature, I thought Frances might have self published the book.  It looked like the sort of styling and practical layout that an experienced dress designer would want, but also something that a publishing house would shy away from as too costly or difficult to manufacture.  All credit to Quadrille, this book clearly follows Frances' vision and The Maker's Atelier Aesthetic throughout.

Patterns

There are eight designs in total: a stretch pencil skirt, drape-front top, cigarette pants, tie-neck blouse, a book bag, raw edge coat, wrap skirt and an over-sized T-shirt.   It's a capsule wardrobe concept with interchangeable separates (three tops, three bottoms), an accessory and an outerwear garment.  You can see a version of each pattern in the picture below and more variations are included in the book, including lengthening/shortening,  new construction elements, different finishes and alternative fabric choices.  The tops tend to have a relaxed fit and the bottoms are closer fitting.  There's also a mix of woven and knits.  Some garments are designed specifically for knits - the stretch pencil skirt for example, whereas others can be made from either, like the drape-front top.  There's a lot of information about more unusual fabrics you may not have used before including thicker, less pliable fabrics like leather, suede, felted fabrics; unusual fabrics like neoprene, stretch PVC, sparkling sequins and coated technical jersey, and luxurious fabrics like scarf silk and satin crepe.  The shapes are simple and there are some notable details from France's experience and knowledge working in the fashion industry.  Above all, she likes to let the fabrics do the work.

There are six, double-sided printed pattern sheets.  Some are for a single garment, like the over-sized t -shirt, others have two garments spread across the two sides. They are clearly labelled and the separate size lines are easy to see so although you need to trace, the task is not too onerous.  

Details

There's lots of information in this book.  There are two sizing systems- one for the more fitted garments (eight sizes) and another for the looser styles (four sizes which straddle the eight sizes) and finished garment measurements for all styles.  For each pattern, the same format repeats: how the style came about, a technical description of the garment, sizing, fabric quantities, layout/cutting, step-by-step instructions with diagrams, how it can be worn and then suggestions for hacks/variations with more instructions and diagrams.  There's no skimping, with lots of detail and information, especially in the variations, and the diagrams and photos are well spaced so it never feels busy.  The size range is from 32" - 46" bust.

The book's colour palette is a warm mix of caramel tones, neutrals and metallics that are a familiar feature of The Maker's Atelier brand.  Frances is based in Brighton and sources many fabrics from Dïtto fabrics, well-known for it's designer, quality fabrics.   She lists many of her other favourite shops in the back of the book.   It's a stylish, classy, clean-cut aesthetic.  

 Here's a close up of some of the garment styles:

The bag is a simple accessory and although the construction is very basic (no pattern needed, measurements given for various sizes) there are handy tips for using leather, adding a lining and making a fold-away shopper. 

It's a beautiful book, easy to use and a pleasure to look through.  I especially like France's use of metallics - as I go into my later 40s, I appreciate metallics more and more!  It's a grown-up book, the styles could form part of a work wardrobe, day or evening wear depending on your  personal style.  I favour the more casual garments as they suit my lifestyle.  The skirt silhouettes aren't my usual shape - I like more swish - although I do like the asymmetry of the wrap style.  I'll be making the oversized T-shirt first with some draped striped jersey.  Do note that seam allowances are usually  ⅜"/1cm.  Only one pattern is an existing Maker's Atelier pattern (the stretch pencil skirt) so the book offers good value, especially compared to individual patterns.  There's plenty of guidance: the fabric details and advice in particular make it much easier to recreate a garment as it appears in the book.  The shapes are simple enough to appeal to beginners, and the more advanced fabric options appeal to the more experienced dressmaker.   Frances is a straight talker and writes well, there's lots of advice and tips throughout and she keep styles and construction as simple as possible- less is more!   The photography deserves a special mention, credits to Amelia Shepherd and Katya De Grunwald. 

You can find The Essential Collection via Quadrille and The Maker's Atelier as well as the usual online and bricks and as ever my own.
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