Assembly Line Apron Dress Version 2- Lined

Here's my second Assembly Line Apron Dress, (read about my first here).  This version is made with medium weight cotton twill originally bought to make a raincoat and I've lined it with cotton lawn (originally intended for the coat lining) to give a bit of extra weight and a bit more swish when walking.  Both these fabrics have been stashed for around 5 years so it felt good to use them in a garment that will see lots of wear.

Some minor changes from the first version,

• I added an extra 1" to the skirt length so I could turn up a deeper hem so the stitch lines are consistent throughout.  I also changed the topstitching a little at the bib top. 
•  The fabric is lighter weight than last time so although I made the straps the same length, they were a little loose and I'm guessing the skirt weight doesn't pull as much as the heavier brown twill, so I ended up unpicking and shortening them by a further 1/2" after these photos were taken.  As I enclosed my strap ends this was a bit fiddly, but I'm good at covering my tracks and you'd never know!
• I added interfacing to the facing this time, the fabric needed some extra oomph!  

The lining is basically a second dress cut 1" shorter. The outer and inner layers behave as one fabric when the facing is added.  It does make it feel extra good and it's always pleasing to see a blast of blue and orange together! The dress fabric is shot with a navy warp and a cornflower blue weft which has a slight shimmer effect, and as it was raincoat fabric, it's slightly water repellent which adds to the utilitarian vibe.  Thank you to Charlotte who kindly took my photos at a quilt guild meeting, that's always the tricky bit as I don't like using a timer and taking my own pics.

Find the pattern at The Draper's Daughter or go straight to the Assembly Line website.  I'm wearing the  dress with a Sew Over It Molly top in a viscose jersey.  

Assembly Line Apron Dress in Twill

I've been wearing this Assembly Line Apron Dress since late December so it is about time I shared it here.  It's a great pattern - all the Assembly Line patterns that I've sewn (V-neck dress, Two Cuff Tops) have resulted in frequently worn garments that definitely bring me joy. 

  

 I have a similar ready-to-wear dress to this, a charcoal cotton drill apron dress from Toast which has a similar pleat feature at the back waist.  I've worn it a lot so this pattern was love at first sight.  I bought it last year when Assembly Line patterns were just arriving in the UK (Draper's Daughter) and were sold in single sizes.  They are now available multi-size.  I bought an S but the fit was quite generous and I needed to reduce the size a little.  I used a cotton twill fabric from Clothspot (similar o the website).  It's got a bit of weight to it and soft fuzzy feel, it's got a lightly brushed texture so I had to cut so the fabric pieces all lay in the same direction- on the layout suggestions, pieces run both ways.  I'd also had the fabric sitting around for 6 months and although it was not in direct sun, the centre fold line created a big faded vertical line down the centre which I had to cut around.  You can see the main features on the pattern technical drawing.

Changes:

• Lengthened the skirt section front and back by 2".  The pattern includes lengthening and shortening directions.
• Seam allowances are 1cm (3/8"), to reduce the waist I sewed 1.5cm (5/8" on all side seams, a total reduction of  3.8 cm (1 1/2").  The fit is comfortable.  When the back waist snaps are undone, you need to be able to  take the dress on and off over the shoulders so it can't be too fitted at the waist.
• I didn't use interfacing on the side and top facings as the twill was quite thick.  In hindsight, I should've used it along the top of the bodice as it has lost a little shape there.
• Strap length reduced by 1/2"
• Hem reduced to 3/4" as I wanted to maximise the length.  When I make another, I will cut it slightly longer to allow for the deeper hem to match the topstitching features. 

It is a relatively simple make so most of my time was spent getting the top stitch details crisp and neat.  The front strap ends aren't enclosed in the pattern instructions but I did enclose mine which made it trickier when adjusting the strap length but a much neater finish.  The pockets are roomy and well designed to have a little extra room to slide a hand in, rather than being a flat patch pocket

I love the back pleat where the waiting fastens.  It creates an A-line skirt so plenty of room for walking, but without excessive fabric around the waist.  I used Prym anorak snaps from an ancient set in my stash and they are secure and don't feel bulky.

I find dresses like this perfect for everyday wear, it's truly an ideal uniform for my lifestyle!  I like the utilitarian, but feminine aesthetic.   I'm currently cutting out a second from a lightweight blue twill that I bought years ago to become a coat.  This time I'm going to add a cotton lawn lining as my Toast apron dress has that and I like the extra layer.  I'll try to share that one a bit quicker!  In the meantime, you can find the pattern at The Draper's Daughter or go straight to the Assembly Line website.  

The Assembly Line V-Neck Dress in Chambray

As promised, here's my second The Assembly Line make: the V-neck Dress.  I was 

 attracted to this style by the narrowness of the V-neck and the back neck collar, plus I knew I'd enjoy working through the collar construction. I used some Robert Kaufmann medium weight Chambray Dobbies Hash that I've had for three years waiting for the right project and it turned out to be a winning combination!

The standard seam allowance on Assembly line patterns is 1cm (3/8") so I made a rough toile of the top part of the dress to test the depth of the V and fit around the sleeves.  I went for quite a close fit and ended up raising the V point by around 1/2" which also brings the neckline in slightly and added a rounded back/shoulder alteration which is standard for me.  Fitting for this style is all about the neck, shoulders and bust; getting those areas to fit well avoids the sack-like potential that can easily happen on a dress with optional waist definition.   

 My other alterations were to move the end of the bust dart upwards by 1/2" and redraw the dart,  and I also extended the dress hem by a couple of inches. Otherwise, I cut the pattern in size XS and the combination of the fabric and instructions meant the construction was a joy.  I love it when details like exactly when to overlock on a trickier section are included as it makes for such a neat finish.

The tie belt has an interfaced centre section so there's a little extra body against your back and I think it helps it to stay in place too.

If I'm working at home, I take the belt off.  It's a relaxed fit but not voluminous.  I'm really happy with it!  It's quite a quick make so I'm planning my next version,  I've got some lovely Intermix chambray from Plush Addict which is a soft woven in a medium weight and I'd like to try the sleeves at full length and add a little extra length in the lower skirt.  The boots are Sanita Puk, I sold a few bits and pieces and bought myself these and I love them!  There's nothing like the sound of clog boots. 

It's such an easy elegant style to wear, another win from The Assembly Line.  The Apron Dress is next...

V-Neck Dress Pattern: Draper's Daughter, or go to The Assembly Line Shop. 

 Fabric suggestions: Quotes Chambray at Eternal Maker

Woven Stripe Loominous at Eternal Maker

Intermix Chambray range at Plush Addict

Horses Chambray at Plush Addict

Robert Kaufman Chambray Dobbies Hash at Fabric.com

The Assembly Line: Cap Sleeve Top in Manchester / Double Gauze

I first saw The Assembly Line shop patterns on Instagram a few months ago and was instantly smitten.  They are a Swedish pattern company and shop and Karen from Draper's Daughter was quick to stock their patterns.  Initially, they were only available as single size paper patterns, this has recently changed to multi-size which is great news as they are at the upper price end.  I started with the easiest pattern, The Cuff Top.

I was almost embarrassed to spend so much on something so simple and I did fear it may be too boxy but actually, it worked really well and it's a basic that I will make multiple versions of so well worth it.  I traced the pattern and made a toile version in a very lightweight linen.  I am very flat on my upper bust area so I ended up reducing the extra fabric below the front neck by pinning darts in the excess and then taking these alterations to the pattern with scissors and washi tape.  The first version was made in Manchester yarn-dyed cotton (now sold out at Eternal Maker, but there are lots of colours available at M is for Make.   This fabric is soft with a bit of drape and works well for this style.  I omitted the centre seam and cut front and back on the fold. I also fed elastic through the casing rather than sewing it directly to the fabric, I found this much easier to do!

The second version was sewn from a gorgeous Nani Iro double gauze remnant, bought from Eternal Maker's excellent destash account.  It's one of Naomi Ito's older Fuwari Fuwari prints; there's a hint of metallic and I love the colourway.  It's soft but less drapey so creates a different effect.  You can find other Nani Iro double gauze prints here.

The neck is finished with a facing and the instructions recommend using the woven label that's included in the pattern to help secure the back.  I find labels a bit scratchy so used bits of soft cotton tape from my stash and I like adding this sort of personal detail.  I made an XS and for sizing reference, my upper bust is 32" and full bust 33".  I've also bought the V-neck dress pattern and The Apron Dress so Assembly Line patterns are making up the majority of new winter wardrobe additions.  As I get closer to 50, I'm aware my style is changing and I really like how their aesthetic works for me.   It reminds me of Toast, maybe a little softer in style.  The instructions are straightforward- each pattern comes with an A4 size black/white booklet with clear diagrams.  The fabric requirements have been very accurate so far too, so much less wastage.  Seam allowances are generally 1cm or smaller for areas like necklines.  I'll share the V-neck dress next.