Monday, 18 May 2015

My Small World Quilt-Along: Introduction Post and Schedule

Welcome to the start of the My Small World Quilt-along.  Hopefully your supplies have arrived or are only days away and you can start your preparation.  This is an introductory post with the schedule and a few ideas to help you prepare for the construction of part one and making the rest of the quilt.  You can check out the rest of the host teams' thoughts at Cindys, John's, Megan's, Danielle's and Lisa's blogs and IG feeds for progress hints, and tips-please allow for different time zones for these posts. The Instagram hashtag #mysmallworldqal will take you to these too!


Errarta
I recommend having a thorough read of the instructions before you start- note the diagram error on page 61.  Originally Quiltmania magazine created a PDF file with corrections for this but they have now withdrawn it.   You can see some details on this blog post from John/QuiltDad.   Jen Kingwell published the corrected pattern herself and it available on her website.  Another minor error to note is on page 74, the larger semi circle template is missing it's label- it is BF.  Note the size of the quilt too, 33" x 52" and many of the pieces are very small.  I'm getting zip lock bags labelled as I cut out different sections for later construction.  There's more info and links further down this post for those wishing to increase the size.


Low Volume and Sky
The sky area features in parts 1-5 of the construction sections so you may want to at least get your fabrics out to plan and maybe get cutting too, there are a lot of little squares involved!  I added a little aqua and yellow to my palette but kept it very light and low contrast.  I know a few participants are interested in having a blue sky.  Charise of Charise Creates has already started hers and the Blue Skies picture below shows how pretty the aqua and cream low volume fabric look together.  I would also recommend a look at the hashtag #mysmallworldqal on instagram to see how other skies look as a few people have already started sewing.  You will find @vickidjl (of Sew Inspired) photo which is another very pretty cream and aqua sky.

Photo kindly supplied by Charise Randall
Templates
Most people will be machine sewing this quilt.  It is template based, and could also be hand pieced if that is your preference.  For templates, I used a mix of template plastic, old Paperchase notebook covers- these make for thicker templates, great for drawing around and freezer paper.  I used freezer paper for some of the curved templates that only have one piece to cut out and I will use it for making lots of the AE/iorange peel templates to appliqué on.   Remember to chose either imperial inch (pink outlined templates) templates or metric (black outlined templates)- don't mix together, plus there are also templates are suitable for both measurement systems also shown in black.  I use a ¼" quilter's wheel to create the seam allowance on fabric with the curved templates.  Incompetech allows you to print a range of shapes- hexagons, 60 degree triangles etc at specific sizes for free e.g. for English paper pieced hexagons in part 5.  I use Karen Buckley's Perfect Circles for appliquéing circles.


Areas to think about during the QAL
During the construction, there are some decisions to be made especially around hand piecing choices.  Here are some areas to think about:
  • Appliqué circles, curved pieces and orange peel in most of the sections   
  • Clamshells in part 4
  • English Paper Pieced hexagons in part 5
  • Arcs in part 5
  • Dresden piecing in part 5
  • Triangle arcs in piece 5
  • Embroidery- buildings in part 4
  • Lots of small green squares need in part 5 and 6
I am going to make a start on some of these early on-I think the clamshells are something I will start preparing sooner rather than later.   EPP takes me ages and hurts my hands- even the preparation of those hexagons takes some time. I think I will hand sew these together but along the seam lines and without papers.  Sue of Jersey-Scraper has offered pre cut hexagons for the price of postage- contact her for this and also for a low volume strip swap for the sky.  As different hosts cover their section of the quilt along, they will share some of their methods and decisions. So far, I have decided not to include embroidery and I will be using needle turn appliqué for all appliqué shapes. 

Palette and Fabric Choices


I am not a huge fan of planning quilts which is the reason Jen Kingwell's quilts appeal to me.  The scrappy palette means I won't have to buy new fabrics, scraps and stash will suffice beautifully.  I am thinking about how much contrast I want to create.  Viewing Jen's quilt through a black and white filter shows the contrast levels amongst the scrappiness and they are relatively low.  I am thinking of a sightly stronger contrast although I am guessing it will evolve as I sew.  I photographed some fabric pulls as an aide memoire when I come to cut buildings and roof tops so I can recall the colours I liked.


Sizing Up
Sizing up is something I know has come up on Instagram discussions.  I will be sticking to the standard size as this quilt is going on my sofa so is just the right size.  There are a number of options for increasing the size.  Lisa is considering this so you might want to read what she says and Cindy is also looking at this option.  Jo of a Life in Lists is expanding the quilt by repeating chunks of sections and adding a lot more sky- you can see her plans in her sketch below.  She is also following this up with a detailed post on her blog.

Photo kindly supplied by Jo Greene
This method means that the size of the pieces remains the same- there's just a lot more of them.  Another alternative is to double the size of the pieces by reproducing the templates at 200% and resize the rotary cut pieces- remember the size for these in the pattern includes seam allowances consider this in your calculations!   For example, a rotary cut 2 ½" square will double up to become a 4½" square including  the seam allowances.

A few thoughts about the quilt along in general.
  1. As it is Jen Kingwell's pattern for Quiltmania we cannot give chunks of the pattern away- i.e. details about the size of each piece so posts will concentrate on skills involved e.g. appliqué or alternatives to sections you might want to change e.g English paper pieced hexagons.  Jen and Quiltmania are following the progress of the quilt-along and looking forward to seeing your versions of My Small World!
  2. All the hosts agreed that the emphasis is on a community quilt along so we have not sought sponsors, prizes or a commercial aspect to the quilt-along so if you see anything along these lines on social media, it is not linked to us but to the individuals offering a giveaway, kits to buy etc.  Instead, we wanted to host a fun, community quilt-along over the next few months and provide the motivation and a little help that we all need to get something we really want to do done! 
  3. There is a Flickr group for those not on Instagram or still like the old style Flickr groups.
  4. Please continue to share on #mysmallworldqal  on Instagram, Twitter and Flickr. 
  5. There's no compulsion.  This quilt along is to help and encourage not lay down the law.  If you want to do something different, share it as others may want to do what you have done!
  6. The construction posts are timed during specific weeks rather than named dates so they may not be there early on Monday morning of that week but later in the week instead.  
I hope that helps.  Any quilt-along questions will be answered in the comments.  I'll write a mini blog post with a link to each part of the  quilt-along over the next few months as well as showing my progress.  Here's the schedule:

Saturday, 16 May 2015

Vintage Pledge: Betsey Johnson for Butterick 3292 Maxi Skirt

This skirt is part of my 3-part Vintage Pattern pledge.  It is the maxi skirt form Butterick 3292, Betsey Johnson for Butterick, view B.  I omitted the waistband and faced the yoke instead to make a low waisted version of the skirt. 


One of the reasons I am such a fan of vintage 1970s patterns is that I find the fit works so well for me. I made very little alteration to the pieces apart from slimming the curve of the hip down a little on the yoke pieces.  It is a generous fit and for a future version I may draft a shaped waistband but I am very happy with this version. 


 The fabric is a lovely mid weight denim style cross fibre chambray from Plush Addict.   It is a great weight for a skirt: it has flow, is heavy enough not to need lining and and has a softness to it.  I would use it for a lightweight pair of wide cut trousers, dresses or skirts.  It's a little heavy for shirts. This is a lighter version of the same fabric.


 I did make some additions to the original pattern based on past experience.  I lined the yoke with Liberty lawn and I interfaced this lining with Perfect Fuse sheer fusible weft interfacing.  This is amazing stuff and my go-to choice for interfacing clothing.  I drafted a a shorter yoke facing and this is also interfaced.  These layers are all thin but they provide a support band at the front to compensate for the removal of the waistband and the combined thickness smoothes and flattens this area a little to prevent tops and knicker lines showing through- you know what I am saying ladies!


The centre back invisible zip was sewn using basting tape which is the best thing I've ever used for fitting a zip.  It's a narrow double sided tape that you apply to the seam allowance (away from the stiching line) and it holds everything perfectly in place.  After sewing, it peels away.  For a zip where there are seams to align it makes the whole process incredibly easy.  I bought mine via Amazon.  There's also a water soluble version which sounds good but I haven't tried.


 It is hard to get a really neat finish when sewing a zip into a faced waistband.  I used the technique in this Threads article and it works really well.


I followed the pattern directions for the hem using home made bias tape on the hem which is invisible hand sewn to the wrong side of the skirt.  The hemline goes on forever so it took a while but it is a lovely finish and it is touches like this that made a handmade wardrobe extra special. 


I finished with two lines of decorative contrast top stitching. I sewed this skirt on my Bernina 707 and it is a wonderful dressmaking machine.


Most of my time is spent in long chambray skirts with knit tops or shirts so I have worn this skirt countless times since I made it.  I have a feeling my Vintage pledge is all going to come from this single pattern.  I have made the trousers- yet to be blogged, and the jacket is ready to cut out.  I am wearing this outfit today as part of Me-made-May 15!  Kerry at Kestral makes is co-hosting the Vintage Pledge so you might want to check out her posts.  I have noticed that during Me-Made-May she also favours the denim skirt/knit top uniform!

sib blog

Wednesday, 13 May 2015

Low Volume Swap: My Small World Quilt-along

For those taking part in the My Small World quilt-along, Sue of Jersey Scrapper has kindly organised a low volume 1.5"strip swap so participants can easily add some variety to their low volume sky.  The sky area involved over 300 squares so although it doesn't actual use much fabric, variety is a big help if you have low volume fabrics but are lacking choice of prints.  


Contact Sue via the links for more details, she's got the organisation licked!
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Sunday, 10 May 2015

May at Village Haberdashery

For my May visit to Village Haberdashery the first thing I think of is florals  with the arrival of Leah Duncan's Morning Walk and Dear Stella's Flirt so a mix of traditional and modern.  
Morning Walk is a summery, free flowing breezy collection which includes quilting cottons (the build a bundle option gives links for these prints)


The centre print, Bare Nopal in Gloom, is also available in voile.  Then there are the knits- all three of them and something for everybody from geometric to through to organic flowers:


I know the cost of the knits does add up but the quality is excellent, they are soft and easy to wear and they seem to stand up well to my washing machine.  I would recommend making a test garment before cutting into them though!  
Dear Stella's Flirt reminds me of painted china.  Delicate and pretty with a hint of water colours. 


Also from Dear Stella are these incredibly cute and appealing Carousel prints. 


The indigo colourway is calling me!
For those caught up in Me Made May 15 with thoughts of sewing more clothes ready for summer, the Grainline small pocket tank pattern has arrived. It's a classic loosely fitted tank pattern with bust darts and the namesake tiny pocket.


I would choose a lighter weight fabric for this- lawn, voile or even some of the sateens that are on sale would all work well for this pattern.  You can find Jen's wonderful step-by-step instructions here.


My mind has been on low volume quilting cottons as I start prep for the  My Small World quilt-along.  'Low volume' really means light coloured, low contrast fabrics.  These are harder to find than you would think! The aim is to find a mix of light colours that work together to provide a palette with subtle variance that pleases the eye but whispers rather than shouts.   You can see an example above as I put together some 'sky' from low volume prints which include white/cream/light blue and yellow.   I have learnt to buy any fabric that I consider low volume as soon as I see it as they tend to be popular prints that sell out first in a design range.  Here are a few I have found at Village Haberdashery- many I would've chosen have already been sold!  They are hard to show in picture form as by definition they are light and rather quiet!









I did struggle a little and a lot of these lean towards the geometric in pattern style but there is a very light coloured collection called Morning Song which is due in soon that has a good selection of light prints.  If you see a low vol print you like, snap it up.  Next time you look, chances are it'll have gone! 

Enjoy x

sib blog

Thursday, 7 May 2015

Hello Henley: McCalls M6747 Review for Dress Up Party

Today you will find me over at Sew Sweetness as part of the 'Dress Up Party' blog series.  Thankyou Sara for inviting me! 



The Dress Up Party takes place throughout May and a variety of garment sewing bloggers will be reviewing a range of patterns.  There are daily giveaways- 20 in all!  Plus a chance to show your own garment sewing and maybe win a prize?  It's an international event, open to all. 



I chose to review McCalls M6747 and Art Gallery Hello Bear knit fabric in Adventure Springs, available here.  Henley style jersey tops are one of my favourite read-to-wear styles and even though the pattern cover is uninspiring, I looked beyond that.  There some interesting details- the placket obviously and the centre back seam which adds extra shape.


Read the rest of my review from test garment, modifications and pattern changes through to final garment over at the Dress Up party.  It's a detailed one with a lot of pictures.

sib blog

Tuesday, 5 May 2015

My Small World Quilt-Along : Details

For those of you on Instagram, you may have seen the recent buzz about a new quilt-along.  There are a team of us- John, Cindy, Megan, Danielle, Lisa and me hosting a quilt-along for Jen Kingwell's wonderful 'My Small World' quilt.  The quilt-along doesn't kick off properly until May 18th but there are a lot of questions being posted so I thought it best to answer some here.  This is the quilt we will all be making, it measures 33" x 52".  It is the perfect scrappy project.  I will be making mine from my stash including the tiniest of scraps.


You can find it in the Quiltmania Spring Special 2015.  There is no issue number as it is a special seasonal issue.  You can flick through the magazine at Quiltmania.  I cannot find it for sale digitally as a single issue.


Where you find the magazine depends on the county you are in.  In the UK it can be found at:
  • Some branches of WHSmiths
  • Some  quilt shops and newsagents- those that already stock Quiltmania publications
  • Online at The Contented Cat.  They will also send overseas- a possible option for European quilters.
  • Online at Coast and Country Crafts. One copy left at the time of writing!
  • Online at The Running Chicken.  Listed here, new copies arriving 8th May and they will send overseas. 
  • Online at Newstand, a couple of copies left here 
For Europe (and elsewhere)
In USA
Australia/New Zealand
If you know of any stockists not mentioned, please let me know and I'll add them to the list.  The quilt-along doesn't start May 18th to give participants a change to buy the magazine.  The first post will be a general introduction about fabric choices and any planned changes like making a bigger quilt.  The first construction post will not be until 25th May.  As the pattern is in six parts there will be six construction posts with a different host leading each one, plus a final post near the end of September to wrap things up so the pace is going to be gentle.  This is a detailed quilt which uses a lot of templates so not something to rush! It can be made by machine or by hand or a combination of the two.

If you would like a button for your blog or other social media, here a range of sizes to choose from!

Here is a mini 125 size blog button; scroll, copy and paste the html code to use:
My Small World QAL


Here is a larger 200 size blog button, scroll, copy and paste as before.
My Small World QAL

Here is a supersize 300 version!  Scroll and paste like before.
My Small World QAL

If you haven't done a quilt-along before, think of it as a support group so that a group of people all over the world can make the same quilt in their own way and enjoy a bit of camaraderie, guidance and assistance where needed.  You can decide your own fabrics and adaptations.   It is not a beginner easy pattern, it does involve a lot of templates and a lot of the pieces are small but it should be relatively straightforward!  Hopefully, we will inspire you and give you some tips on skills and techniques during the construction.  We will not be giving lots of details and measurements from the pattern as you need to buy the Spring Special to take part but we will be sharing info on things like curved piecing, appliqué and alternatives, English Paper Piecing and much more.  Jen Kingwell has given us her blessing and will be watching progress on Instagram.

I'll be posting regularly here and have designated a blog page to store all the info.  Much of the action will also take place on Instagram.  The hashtag is #mysmallworldqal.  The quilt-long hosts are @verykerryberry @liveacolorfullife @lucyandnorman, @j_q_adams, @vintagemodernquilts @petitselefants and you can tag us if you have anything to ask or show us.

sib blog


Monday, 4 May 2015

Me Made May: Day 4 Astoria Cropped Sweater Review

Me Made May looks busier than ever this year.  Looking at the tag #mmmay15 on Instagram I've already noticed a lot more knit tops and dresses than previous years which shows the growth in knit/jersey patterns and the increased availability of good quality jersey fabric.  In Seamwork the new online magazine from the people behind Colette, there was a love crop jersey top design called Astoria.  I printed it out on Friday, taped and cut it out on Saturday and sewed it together yesterday!




The Seamwork patterns are all straightforward beginner frinedly projects with the claim that they can be made in an hour.  I timed myself.  It took me two hours to sew.  I am not a fan of encouraging people to sew very quickly- it often ends in tears!  Here are the details.
  • I cut size XS grading to S at the waist.  I cut view 2, long sleeved version.
  • I narrowed the neck band width by ½" having seen Lauren's version  on Instagram which had a narrower neck band.  I also ended up shortening the band by 1" and I cut it on the bias to get the diagonal stripes.
  • I stabilised the back shoulder seams with knit stay tape.
  • I removed 1¾" from hem of the sleeve and added bias cut cuffs, 1 ¾" x 7"instead.
  • I straightened the angle of seam at the shoulders- this shaves off approx ⅛" at the neck edge and stops gaping at the neck if you are skinny in this area.  'Hollow chested' is the usual phrase used, nice!
  • I used an interlock jersey which is a very stable fabric to work with.  It lies flat, is easy to pin into place and is relatively thick.  Thicker knit fabrics are recommended.  These fabrics are either interlock or sweatshirt with sufficient stretch and should all work for this top.
I am pleased with the result.  I am wearing it will my Gabriola skirt  It's a great fit and the fabric ended up as a great choice.  The sleeves are a little close fitting on the lower part of my arm so I will increase this a little on future versions and I think I will lengthen the body by 1" to reduce the crop by just a little.  The instructions are a little variable  They do vary from being aimed at the total beginner e.g. "the right side of fabric will show on a finished garment; the wrong side will be on the inside" and then lack detail on trickier areas like attaching the neck band or which way to press seams.  The pattern does take a lot of paper too but it tapes together without problems.  I bought the pattern as a one off subscription so it was great value and the pattern is available by itself here.   Rachel of House of Pinheiro wrote a helpful review which you can read here


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