March at Village Haberdashery

There is never a shortage of things to write about in my visits to Village Haberdashery, Annie always has new stock arriving!
The first thing that grabbed my attention was the new Hello Bear  collection by Bonnie Christine for Art Gallery Fabrics.

From the look book imagery, this is heavily aimed at young children as well as quilts but to me, the fabrics- the knits in particular are great for adults too.  Great colours- easy to wear and the patterns offer a mix of the pastel calm of Firefly in Sign, the bolder Buck Forest in Mist and my personal favourite Adventure in Springs.  Art Gallery knits seem to get better with each collection.

They are a cotton spandex blend so have great spring back when worn- no baggy bottoms or elbows- and they seem to wash better than they used to.  The Jungle Avenue black dot that I used a while back faded quickly but subsequent prints like Cottagely Posy have washed really well.  You can also build a bundle in all the quilt prints seen in the Look Book:

One option for the Art Gallery knits could be the new Sewaholic Davie knit dress pattern,

From the Art Gallery knits, these three fabrics would all work well.  From the top:

Geometric Bliss Knit- Spherical buds in Aqua, the very beautiful Petal and Plume- Panache in Portfolio (that's a lot of alliteration!), and finally Katy Jones' Priory Square- Cottagely Posy.

Another recently arrived dress pattern is the By Hand London Sophia dress.  

This dress offers a floaty flared godet skirt or a sleek pencil style option as well as interesting dart placement and a collar option.  For fabrics, I have a few suggestions which may depend on your budget and the style that you opt for. 

Enormous blue tulips voile- good for the godet option.  The skirt takes lots of fabric so the lower price point helps cushion the wallet.

Dear Stella Ludlow collection which is a shirting weight cotton so I imagine it would need lining for the sheath option and the bodice.  I've been waiting ages to see this collection in the UK, I think I first saw it online last summer and it feels like it's taken forever to get here!  I think this print, Rosebuds in Navy is my favourite:

It's also suitable for quilting, read more about it here.

You know my weakness for chambray and yarn dyed fabrics, especially for garments- my wardrobe is full of various shades of indigo and grey!  The Manchester yarn dyed fabrics by Robert Kaufman are a new arrival and look like a great transition fabric with a little more weight than the floatier chambrays.  I like Marine best but Steel is a very pretty grey too.

Enjoy looking at the new arrivals.  I am planning for spring but I have a couple of Linden sweatshirts to sew up first whilst the weather is still on the cool side.

Block Appreciation

Another successful meet up on Saturday for Southwest Stitchers, the informal local sewing group that meets up every 4 months or so.  We hire a large, warm, well lit space with a kettle and tea cups so a bunch of stitchers can talk fabric, patterns, clothing is so great and the more we do it the more it is like meeting up with old friends.  Helen and I got out our blocks and compared quilts-to-be:

I am four blocks off the total for my Bring Me Flowers quilt.  This was the block of the month and I mixed in a few of my own too.  Mostly hand sewn although I'll join the blocks on the machine.  I've enjoyed it so much, part of me doesn't want it to end- although I am pretty keen to see it in quilt form.

These are Helen's from her Green Tea and Sweet Beans quilt.   Again, her's is mainly hand pieced and many of these blocks were made as a travelling projects whilst Helen is on the road in her camper van.  A beautiful range of colours, lots of fabrics from friends and a clever use of cheater prints which are perfect for projects like this where more is more.  Like me, Helen is a fan of the intricate and also slow sewing.  These Jen Kingwell quilt designs are perfect if that is your preference.  You are only ever working on one block at a time- no need to cut fabric far in advance.  Perfect for a long term project on the go.

Whilst I was at the meet up, this arrived,  Jen Kingwell's book, Quilt Lovely.  I collected it from the sorting office yesterday and every spare moment has been spent reading and planning.  It was sent from USA as I am reviewing this book in a couple of weeks time and it isn't due to arrive in the UK until late April, but I am sure you won't mind me saying that is you plan on ordering Quilt Lovely, it won't disappoint.  It mixes hand sewn projects with machine sewn, long term slow sewing with some quicker quilts and pillows.  I already have my project planned for a life post Bring Me Flowers.

Choosing Sewing Magazines

I am not a great magazine buyer.  Celeb, gossip and style mags hold little interest apart from a flickr though in a waiting room.  I do buy the occasional sewing magazine and these tend to have a garment rather than a quilting focus.  I recently started as a columnist for Sewing World magazine.  You can see from the strap line in the picture that is well established with a 20 year reputation- quite some going as a magazine, its a tough world out there!

Sewing World is a dependable type of magazine.  There is always a mix of projects from relatively simple garments for adults or children, usually a quilt per issue (the one above is by Jenna from Sew Happy Geek) and a selection of small projects- wash bags, totes, children's toys.  I enjoy the features in this magazine.  There is usually some sort of technical masterclass article written by an expert.  In the March issue facings are the theme and it is written by Angela Venn of Venn Tailoring.  Kellie from Plush Addict has some very useful articles on handling tricky fabrics like fleece which you can now find on the Plush Addict blog.

There are articles on individuals working in the sewing industry.  I especially liked this months's feature on Collier and Robinson: bespoke blazer makers and there preparation for Henley Regatta- great info and great tips!

When I am browsing in WHSmith, I do always check out Sew Magazine, which is now Sew Home and Style.  There is usually a 'free' pattern with this magazine and that is the main lure.  The patterns tend to be Simplicity but not exclusively so and in the past included styles from their current range.  More recently the free patterns have been either very simple and rather boxy shapes, or 50s style dresses (there are only so many I need or wear) so I haven't bought any but always worth checking out and the features are usually helpful and written by people who know their sewing!

Threads is a USA publication aimed at the sewing enthusiasts which is available in the UK but getting hold of a copy is often random.  My branch of WHSmith only ever has a handful and they go fast.  This is a more advanced magazine with the emphasis on techniques rather than patterns although there are projects and makes included too.

I bought my copies via online subscription which cost around $32 for 6 issues- (around £22).  Most UK sewing magazines are £4.99/£5.99 so it works out as cost effective and is posted to my door.   I paid with my usual bank account and it all went through fine, even though it was in $.  The first issue did take a while to get here but subsequent ones have arrived quickly.

So far I have been pleased with what I have received.  Articles are thorough and the techniques are ones I will use- shoulder alterations, sleeve/shoulder fitting and the readers tips are often very clever although I do get echoes of Viz magazines top tips, but maybe that's just me... 

Some of the content decisions are a little odd. In a feature all about using bias tubes which had multiple pictures, including the magazine cover, of a top with neck, hem and sleeve cuffs all finished with  repeated delicate bias tubes and hand stitches, the article did not explain how to do that but instead concentrated on an elaborate celtic knot that surely no one would want to wear?  The embellishment articles are generally not to my taste.  They have a tendency to look old fashioned.  I've done silk painting back in the 90s but I would never want to wear something like this, Quelle horreur!

I a not a huge fan of upcycling for clothing- it has its place but I don't generally like doing it and it really needs to be done well- if I can see that the dress is obviously made out of a selection of men's shirts, I do not want to make it. Hideous!

Despite its aesthetic wobbles, I am throughly enjoying my Threads subscription.  It is a great magazine to keep or cut out pages from and it takes a long time to read rather than just pretty pictures to flick through.  I haven't mentioned quilting magazines like Quilt Now or Love Patchwork and Quilting and I guess many sewing people buy them as they are bright and colourful with lots of projects.  I am often tempted by Quiltmania, but them I see the price and put it back!

What do you buy or subscribe to?

Liberty 'Hello Kitty' Kanerva Blouse

My second outing for the Named Clothing Kanerva blouse pattern.  This time in Liberty lawn, Hello Kitty toile style print, bought a couple of summers ago from Fabrics Galore at Fat Quarterly Retreat.

I tweaked the pattern slightly, a quarter inch reduction centre front and back so an inch all round plus I reduced the slope on the shoulders at the neck side. It still needs a little more tweaking as this version was a little tight across the chest and I had to let out the scant seams.

The lowered the neckline which makes it look a little softer, but there is some extra fabric in the high bust area so I will trace again and make a little alteration to lose some of the excess for the next one.

I made the sleeves around an inch longer, I like the effect.

Close up on the fabric, love the musical theme.

You can read my first post on this pattern here. 

Named Clothing have a new Spring/Summer 15 pattern collection, Ticket, released 3rd March. 

My sewing is little all over the place at the moment.  I've sewn a lot of things for my daughter in the last few months and I've also been making lots of things for friends samples/market/pattern tests/blog hops in the last month which will pop up here in time.  Quilting has taken a back seat, apart from hand sewing 'Bring Me Flowers' and clothing has taken over along with some family stuff but there are too many things in progress which just makes for mess and chaos. I need to prioritise and let go of a few things before I start anything else.  Thankyou as ever to Lula for taking the photographs in a moment of beautiful sunlight. 

February at Eternal Maker

I try and time my sponsor visits with new arrivals and some fresh stock is just in at Eternal Maker, just in time for my February trip.  I always find something I've not seen elsewhere and this print was the first fabric to catch my eye: Fisherman's Net, Kim Anderson for Windham

I really like the colours, soft with a little hit of red.  I like the pattern too- geometric but still sketchy and not too rigid.

A large selection of Ellen Luckett Baker's new Charm's range  have just arrived including this stunning half round metallic print.  I would love this for a bag.  Anna Graham's new collaborative design with Heather Bostic, The Caravan Tote and Pouch pattern, would be the perfect pattern for this.

If you are similarly inspired, Eternal Maker stock leather look bag handles here,  and spotty handles here.  Other bag hardware can be found here.  I would pair the metallic scallop with this olive linen/cotton yarn dyed blend from Robert Kaufman.

If you fear the metallic, the same scallop print is available in mustard (no sparkles), and charcoal.

And for those of you who like a cute animal combined with a soft geometric, the sheep print in mint is pretty darn cute.

This picture (owned by Eternal Maker) gives you an idea of the relative scale of the 'Charms' prints and others in the range.  

Also freshly arrived is the Echino 10th Anniversary collection in cotton sateen and also the usual linen cotton blend.  Atori in mustard is a gorgoues combination of colour and print- this is cotton sateen:

The sateen print is also available in black and purple.  If you are new to cotton sateen, it has a silkier touch than a standard woven cotton due to the weave.   It has a better drape for clothing- think dresses, especially full skirted (although that may be just my personal preference) and would give a soft, silky feel if used in a quilt. You sometimes see it used for high end luxury bed sheets because the feel is so good.  This co-ordinating Arc Birds yellow/green print is in linen/cotton blend:

Arc bird comes in four colour ways so as well as the yellow/green you can find pink, blue and purple.

I felt I had to show you this Buck Chevron print too, classic Echino!   This is in cotton sateen.

Amy Butler's Violette collection is full of spring and even summer optimism and has some wonderful colours and prints.  French Twist is a favourite. 

I am a sucker for teal and orange together!  You can see more prints from the Violette range here .  It's a strong collection with a lot of variety, one of her best for ages in my opinion.  If like me, this colour way appeals, this azure bundle has a few more from Violette:

I'll end this month's selection with one of my long term favourite designers, Naomi Ito for Nani Iro.  Some brushed cotton versions of her Sen Ritsu floral print have arrived and the combination of soft warm fabric, delicate flowers and the tiniest amount of sparkle is perfection. Dresses, PJ pants, tunic tops, shirts, quilts, whole cloth blankets- all work well with this brushed cotton.  

Sen Ritsu pink/cream brushed cotton:

Sen Ritsu in Mole gray and Sen Sen Ritsu Pale Grey brushed cotton.

Mother's day isn't far away in the UK and I must say a few metres of any of these Nani Iro beauties to make lounge PJ pants would be the most wonderful and generous present!  Enjoy x

My Betsey Johnson Pattern Collection

For a frequent dress maker, I have a modest number of patterns.  I tend to keep only what I will realistically make, patterns that are my size or close or the occasional patterns that is so beautiful/kitsch/of its time that I feel bound to hold on to it.  I have more vintage patterns than modern and my favourites are from the 1970s.  I was born in 1970 so the aesthetic is one I grew up with and I like a little homespun ditsy prairie look with a nod to 1940s and 1900s so Betsey Johnson is my perfect pattern designer, this is my collection.

Lots of the big name pattern houses featured young designers in their seasonal collection.  There is an excellent blog post here showing Buttericks range of young designers, collated by vintage enthusiast and collector Lizzie Bramlett- she now blogs at The Vintage Traveller.  I have been collecting mine from Etsy and Ebay for a few years.

Butterick 3292 was my missing link, a pattern that I had seen here at Gold Country Girls a while back in a glorious three part feature on Betsey Johnson at Butterick, had to have and was scouting around for ever since.  I randomly came across it recently in Canada on ebay and stayed up for a late night bid.  I was prepared to pay big bucks but I got lucky, no one else bid and it was under £5.  What can I say?  I love them all, every item, the colours, everything about it.  I have some mustard corduroy on order and plan to make the jacket first.

Butterick 6535 was another lucky purchase.  I bought it with a couple of other designer Butterick patterns for very little- again on ebay. There are no instructions but the cutting layout and all the pieces are there.  The shirt and maxi skirt would be my choice on this one.  You can see them made up for the original pattern promotion here.

I think this was an Etsy purchase on a bit of a whim.  I do like an Empire neckline and princess bodice- both features that work well for me.  I am not usually a short dress wearer though. I would have to lengthen this but that is easily doable.  The shoes remind me of the new Orla Kiely range for Clarks.

I bought Butterick 3848 from Etsy last year- maybe around £10.  When I took part in Me-Made-May'14 one of the highlights on the Instagram tag feed was a photo posted by someone who made and wore it first time round.

I have made view C wrap skirt (longer length) of Butterick 4089 and have worn it extensively.  I was inspired by Ruth's version and she inspired me again with her broderie cotton lace interpretation of skirt E.  This is a pattern I shall definitely revisit.

I can't remember where Butterick 6534 came from but I do know that I didn't pay much for it and I see it for sale at a high price tags- £15-20ish.  You can see these patterns sewn from the original catalogue here.  Betsey Johnson produced a lot of stretch knit patterns for Butterick.  These tops are high on my to do list.  I might lengthen them a little but I have used the pockets before and they are a really cute addition to a top.

Butterick 6838 has a rather fragile envelope but the contents are complete.  I am a little unsure about the long  knit coat/jacket option, and I wonder how successful the tank top would be but the shirt shape is good with great yoke details front and back.

As a spur into action, I have been over to A Vintage Sewing Odyssey and joined in with The Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge.  

"I, Kerry of verykerryberry, pledge to make 3 garments from my Betsey Johnson 1970s pattern collection in 2015".

Want to join? Visit Marie, or her co host Kerry of Kestral Makes to find out more.