Wednesday, 26 June 2013

PJ Pants Class at Fat Quarterly Retreat

Fat Quarterly Retreat 2013 is only weeks away and I am busy prepping.  This post is for those coming to my PJ pants class but it could be of interest to others so read on!  Any questions will be answered in the comments instead of by email so the info is with the post.  The PJ pants class uses a Simplicity pattern 9871 which you can buy or download for free and tape together.   You can find lots of handy info at the free download especially Anatomy of a Pattern and Fabric Selection
I am going to go through some prep work that you are welcome to do before class or as part of the class.   If you wish to trace off the pattern before you come you will need to have an idea about size.  The differences between sizes on this pattern are generous.  I made an XS-too small, and an S- too big, so I ended up tracing between sizes.  You can even trace the waist/hip as one size and the leg as another- I did this with the pattern I traced for Laura Jane's PJs.  Her pattern is the white version on the right,  the waist/hip is between sizes M and L and the leg is M.
If you are working out sizes, a pair of your own well fitting PJs is a great help.  The pattern has some markings that are a great guide when working out size.  There is a line for where the crotch will be once the PJs are made and also the waistline, (I'll warn you there will be a lot of talk of crotches).  You can position the crotch of your own PJs and see how the depth of the waist/hip area compares.  I used this for Laura's and you can see where the waist line is on her Marks and Spencers strawberry pjs and the waistline on the pattern so I dropped the waistline by 1 1/2"when I traced the pattern. 
For the leg length, use the inside leg of your own PJs and remember to allow for the hem finish you want. There is more detail on this on the print out mentioned below.  It is always better to make the PJs too long and have room to play with but if you do end up making them too short a hem cuff can be added or they could be 3/4 length and you can pretend that is what you wanted all along!
You have the option of making the PJ pants exactly as they are on the pattern or with some extra details- straightening the leg, lowering the waistline, hem cuff, elastic/front tie and I have written a document which explains some of the size, cutting out and making details, especially for those extra details.  If you are coming to class, please print this out, read through and bring with you.  I will bring copies with me too.  I will be going through the basics of tracing, cutting out and making plus Trudi will be on hand too to help out.  You will be needing to try on as you make so if you were thinking of wearing an all-in-one jump suit to retreat, you may want to think again.

Some Style Options:
Narrow tie  1/2" + back elastic
Wide tie 1" + back elastic
Standard Hem
Contrast Hem Cuff- 3" finished
Contrast Hem Cuff  with Turn-up
And others- shorts, 3/4 length, bound hem, lace trimmed hem- any ideas let me know in the comments and I'll see what I can do.  
The details below are in the Fat Quarterly info that has been sent out to class members but there is no harm in repeating.  With fabric quantities- better too much than too little and that includes the requirements for contrast trims so I have upped these quantities.

You Will Need:
Fabric: See pattern for quantity, they are generous estimates. Cotton fabric is recommended and woven rather than stretch.  I made a voile version and a flannel version.  Avoid directional patterns or patterns that need matching (including plaid/check/stripes) as they require extra fabric. A large double bed sheet might be sufficient- depends on your size. 
To make the contrast hem cuffs: at least long 1/4 yard contrast fabric, 1/2 yard is better!
Waist ties: If contrasting you will need at least long 1/4 yard contrast fabric (not flannel for waist ties, too bulky.
If tracing: Swedish paper/lightweight copy paper to be taped together/dots & cross paper, tape
Paper Scissors
Fabric Scissors
1 1/4 yard of 1/2” wide elastic- or wider elastic.  I have tried 1/2" and 1"
Tape measure
Good quality polyester thread for strength- not cotton.  I suggest Gutermann or Coates.
Scrap fusible woven interfacing 2” x 4”
If using lawn or voile- bring 70 size sewing needle, Microtex is good for lawn and voile
Bodkin/safety pin for threading elastic throughcasing
Usual sewing- scissors, seam ripper, pins
Quilt ruler
Pencil or fabric marker
Buttonhole foot if bringing your own machine
Optional: Pinking shears if you are bringing your own machine and have no zig-zag to finish seams
Optional: A pair of PJ pants that already fit you well

I will provide:
Fray check for buttonholes
Off cuts of interfacing
Love and understanding!


sib blog

29 comments:

  1. Okay, I am not coming to your wonderful retreat but I did get a vision of everyone sewing away in their all in one jumpsuits (like CatWoman!). Have a great time!

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  2. Me too! Catwoman jumpsuits.
    Because you guys across the pond are so into fashion & style.

    Have fun with your class.

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  3. I love the contrast hem....though I'm not in your class I shall take a nosey at what everyone has done.

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  4. Could I thread elastic through the channel instead of a waist tie?

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    Replies
    1. Yes, that is the original pattern option. The pattern has a tie that then sits on top of the elastic but is more decorative than functional as the elastic is doing the work. The versions I have done are a combination of elastic with ties- this makes one long string that is threaded through and elasticates the back of the PJs and makes a drawstring (without elastic at the front).

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  5. Removing all in one jumpsuit from packing list now....

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  6. I feel I should wear my simplicity pjs just to keep you all company, even though I am not in the class!

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  7. Great post. Thanks for all the great info. I just wish I wasn't so jealous of all you folks going to Fat Quarterly. You guys make it sound so darn fun! If only I weren't on the wrong side of the Atlantic. ;-D

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  8. Hey Kerry, what is that strawberry fabric? I love it! Also, I'm on the wrong side of the Atlantic-boo.

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    Replies
    1. The strawberry print is Laura's original jersey pyjamas- shop bought from M and S. Cute aren't they!

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  9. Thanks for this incredible info! I will not get to meet you, but will think of you and your full class as I make pj pants. I can never find them long enough so this pattern is ideal :)

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    Replies
    1. There is a lengthen/shorten line- If you trace the pattern, you can cut across this, spread out the 2 pieces by the amount you need to lengthen using a piece of paper underneath, tape down and then cut out with the new lengthening section as part of the pattern

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  10. Sadly I didn't get the pj pants class bit I am doing the fantasy fabric shop, yey!

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  11. Loving the pyjamas you have made, such beautiful fabrics. I am getting to jealous seeing all these posts and wishing I would be there. I might have to have my own little sew along at home and make some pj trousers. I've had a few attempts but not got the perfect pair cracked yet.

    Ps. loved the line about providing love and understanding.

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  12. The bit that scares me the most is the getting the pattern sizing right. If I learn that and nothing else I'll go away a happy bunny. Of course if I master this pattern I'll probably end up making myself lots of PJ pants, it'll really upset my other half who said: You aren't going to start wearing clothes to bed are you?!

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  13. Soooo looking forward to this class (and on mention of trying on I *must* remember to wear my best knickers!) So many options, I'm going to have to think about what I fancy the most!

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  14. Hi Kerry! I am coming to the Retreat and am ridiculously excited as I am just starting in the world of crafting and have been following blogs for a few months now. I discovered yours in the spring...I love it as I you are a lot more accessable to beginners than some : ) In fact I heard about the Retreat through your post recently, so have only just booked and funnily enough this pattern was one I'd already bought of a few I thought might be within my scope! I may well comment again when I get into my prep - I'm bound to have a query! Thanks! Jen

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    Replies
    1. Such a lovely comment Jennifer! The retreat is such a great experience- I think you will love it!

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  15. In fact, that was quick, lol, I do have a query! Forgot to ask...I need to buy my fabric...I'm thinking the strawberry print (kbzelazny's comment) is Heather Ross fabric? But what are the utterly gorgeous two blue floral prints called please, in the second from bottom pic? I'm guessing Liberty, but do you know which? Thank goodnessfor the love & understanding, I may need a lot, being a newbie! Thanks again,
    Jen

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    Replies
    1. See above about the strawberry fabric (not Heather Ross). The blue/green florals are a cotton twill and I found them at carboot sale. The green is a Liberty form the 1980s I think- not sure about the blue- just lucky finds!

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  16. Home from my holibags, pattern printed along with destructions, tracing paper still in package, fabric ordered, elastic being furtled about for, tie fabric being dug out and bodkin located, think I'm set :oD

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  20. This is probably a really stupid question, but why do you need to trace off your pattern? Why can't you just use the actual pattern? Plus if you are not very tall and want to do contrasting cuffs could you knock around 1/2 a yard off your fabric amounts (I have a piece I want to use but it is 2 and a 1/3 yards and I don't want to make shorts!)

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  21. If you cut the actual pattern and your PJs end up being the wrong size you would then need to print it out again or buy another pattern. It took me 3 pairs to get my size spot on but all pairs are wearable. If you have wide fabric-e.g 50" you can get away with less fabric. For 42" fabric it will basically take a length of fabric across the whole width for each leg. Not sure how tall you are Jo but I think it will work, and you can always have wider contrasting cuffs.

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  22. Hmmm... Trying on.... Now I know why there is a need for waxing before retreat...... ;-)

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  23. Hi does the fabric need to be washed before cutting?

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